114 | Justin Sackett: Chasing Altitude - Close Calls & Training for Everest Without O2

Justin Sackett, an AMGA certified guide who googled "hardest hike" in college and ended up on a 20,000-foot peak in Ecuador with zero mountaineering experience. That failure lit a fire that led him from complete beginner to professional guide to running his own guide company at 28—all while training single-mindedly for Everest without supplemental oxygen. This episode explores his rapid progression to being an alpine guide, the mentor who gave him the technical foundation most climbers take years to develop, and the Liberty Ridge storm where 60mph winds and inadequate gear taught him lessons about weather forecasts and risk tolerance. We discuss the Rainier ice block incident that made several of his friends quit guiding, why he started his own company instead of working for established services, how he vets guides, and what training for Everest without oxygen actually looks like when you're also running a business. Justin opens up about the genetic lottery of altitude performance, why the West Ridge of Everest represents the ultimate objective in his mind, and how he's preparing mentally for both success and failure. Topics include: becoming a mountain guide, AMGA certifications, Liberty Ridge conditions, guide company management, hiring guides, Everest without oxygen training, altitude acclimatization, post-objective depression, risk tolerance at 8,000 meters, and balancing business ownership with personal climbing goals. 00:00:00 Origin Story - From Atlanta to Ecuador 00:06:25 Ecuador Misadventures & Early Learning 00:17:42 Finding Mentors & Cost of Guiding Education 00:21:22 Justin Murley - The Mentor Who Changed Everything 00:28:02 Becoming a Guide & AMGA Certifications 00:41:00 Liberty Ridge Storm - "My Parents Are Going to Be So Pissed" 00:50:17 Rainier Ice Block Incident & Close Calls 01:02:00 Starting a Guide Company at 28 01:10:25 Building the Ideal Guiding Experience 01:17:34 Hiring Guides & Avoiding Crusty Climbers 01:29:45 Training for Everest Without Oxygen 01:33:00 The West Ridge Dream - The Ultimate Objective 01:37:43 What Success & Failure Mean #amgaguides #highaltitudeclimbing #mountaineering #alpinism --- Thanks to our sponsors! LIVSN Designs Checkout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HERE https://www.livsndesigns.com/?dt_id=2... Use Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your Order Help Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast   / membership   Resources Book Justin Sackett's Guide Services https://www.skylinemountainguides.com/ Justin's IG   / skylinemountainguides