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■ The Sea Off Dolsan, A Bountiful Taste at the End of Winter – Dolsan-eup, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do February, the last month of winter, when the sea reaches its coldest. Kim Young-il (65) and Lee Jeong-mi (61) begin their day by heading out to sea in Soyul Village, Yullim-ri, Dolsan-eup, Yeosu, a small fishing village where the sea off Dolsan is the first to catch its breath. Captain Kim, a Yullim-ri native, casts a net to catch mullet, monkfish, and snailfish. He reads the tides and winds to lower his nets, retrieving the fish at their peak, when they are plump and plump. Mullet has long been considered a precious fish, so much so that it is called "su-eo" (秀漁), meaning "excellent." Mullet, bred in the cold seas, develops plump flesh and, when pan-fried, offers a refreshingly mild flavor. At this time of year, monkfish, brimming with nutrients, becomes tender and rich when boiled. Especially in the run-up to spawning season, monkfish liver, packed with nutrients, is so savory it's called the "foie gras of the sea," a delicacy among delicacies. Snailfish, once so precious it was called "gold catfish," infuses a deep, rich flavor when dried and steamed. Lee Jeong-mi (61), who grew up in a place where seafood was scarce, first prepared fish after marrying into this village. While it was unfamiliar and daunting at first, she now prepares, dries, and even makes fish sauce with unparalleled skill. She has learned firsthand the fishing village custom of preserving and sharing the flavors of the sea. The husband brings the catch from the sea, and the wife prepares it for the table. On days when pancakes of mullet, steamed dried catfish, and boiled monkfish are served, the meal is not just for one family. Neighbors gather to share and share laughter. The flavors nurtured by the cold February sea, rarely experienced anywhere else, deepen with the warmth of Soyul Village. ■ Winter Gamtae, a Rare Dish, a Simple Winter Table from Maedong Village – Doyang-eup, Goheung County, Jeollanam-do As the sea breezes grow harsh, the sea of Maedong Village, Doyang-eup, Goheung County, becomes bustling. For these villagers, winter is the season of Gamtae. Gamtae, a staple on the table since ancient times like kimchi, has been a part of the daily lives of the Maedong people. Gamtae, originally called "Gashipaerae," is a seaweed that cannot be farmed, so it is entirely wild. It requires the right tide and limited access, making it difficult to enjoy outside of season. Therefore, Gamtae at this time of year is considered the most flavorful and fragrant seasonal ingredient of the year. Its flavor, rarely seen on tables after the season has passed, can only be enjoyed now. Jeong I-gyun (72) and Lee Ok-sook (66), a couple living in Maedong Village, call Manjaedo, a small island off the village, "Treasure Island." When the tide recedes, the waters surrounding Manjaedo reveal a variety of seafood and seaweed, including Gamtae (sea tangle). The couple say the Gamtae from this sea has a softer texture and deeper flavor than those found elsewhere. Gamtae, caught from the cold sea, is often seasoned and made into Gamtaeji (sea tangle paste). While Gamtae is a daily staple, it sometimes finds its way onto the table in other forms. A winter staple is thinly pan-fried Gamtaejeon (sea tangle pancake). A single sheet of pancake, fragrant with the subtle aroma of the sea, is a simple pleasure shared around a fire. For guests or special occasions, they serve Gamtae Roll Grilled. Caught and rolled like an octopus casserole, they grill it until it's tender and juicy. This long-standing delicacy, with its uniquely different flavor, is a delicacy that has been enjoyed since ancient times. When a salty and bitter aroma spreads in your mouth, it's winter in Maedong Village, a seasonal flavor only available now. Manjaedo Island, known as Treasure Island, and its surrounding sea. People have lived by harvesting only what nature allows. Even today, the tables of Maedong Village capture the breath of the February winter sea and the flavor of seasonal seaweed. ■ Lottery-worthy cockles and nostalgic conches: The end of winter at Namdang Port – Seobu-myeon, Hongseong-gun, Chungcheongnam-do It's late winter, with the land gradually easing its chill, but the sea still harbors a chill. Hongseong Namdang Port is at its busiest. For the locals, cockles are a seasonal delicacy only available in February. Unlike today, when they are considered a seasonal delicacy, they were initially unwelcome. They say the bird's beak-like shape was unfamiliar and repulsive, and they were not even considered, let alone eaten. After the Seosan Reclamation Project, the marine environment changed, leading to the emergence of razor clams. Once simply a shellfish found in the ocean, razor clams gained renewed attention with news that they were prized as the finest in Japan. As exports increased and their reputation spread domestically, residents of Namdang Village began to join the fis...
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