Chasing the Bulgers: Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak

After wrapping up climbing and filming with Andrew Okerlund for the 100 Summits project, I had 16 Bulger Peaks left to conquer to complete the list of Washington's 100 highest peaks. The first two on the agenda were Mount Buckner and Horseshoe Peak—two rugged and remote summits in the North Cascades National Park. Join me through the highs and the lows of bagging these peaks - the challenges of backcountry approach, route-finding, and learning from mistakes. Mount Buckner stands at 9111 feet, making it Washington’s 13th highest peak. Horseshoe Peak lies just to the west and is the tallest point along Ripsaw Ridge, between Buckner and Boston Peak. My notes/report during the trip: “Windy and cold. I have not had good sleep for several nights previous which means I’m not at my best… not the best choices on my route. Took some extra time shooting video and hydrating. I would not follow my track on the final drop into Horseshoe basin. Following that red staircase couloir down put me in at least one heavily exposed mid 5th section. Most of it was very exposed. With a bulky pack it was hard to give visual checks on footholds. From above it looked like it could be easier than I actually found it to be. Got on the not-Horseshoe Peak at sunset. The peakbagger waypoint is closer to this NE one, but everyone seems to climb the more technical one with all the tat at the top move. After getting on both I was asking myself, why does the NE peak seem higher? Never found a good bivy spot, but eventually made it work on a ledge at 8300’ below Horseshoe, even though there wasn't much of a spot for it. For capturing the aurora lights above Buckner it was the perfect spot. As my camera was taking long exposures on a tripod, a packrat kept eating at my backpack, which wouldn’t fit with me in my bivy. Having averaged 3.5 hours sleep for the previous two nights, I was tired and it didn't take me long to give up on shooing it away. Thankfully it snowed overnight (packrat went home) and into the morning, but not much issue with slick rock until midday when I was heading out on Sahale arm. Feel like I’m learning to navigate on my own again. After all the mountains with Andrew and some new partners, my methods have been challenged a bit, in a good way, but now back to navigating by myself.” DISCLAIMER This is not a recommendation to hike or climb. Please do not put yourself in danger. These peaks do not have hiking trails and require extensive experience with navigation and climbing in remote backcountry terrain. Proper research and planning are essential to match your skills with the demands of the mountain. Start by joining your local alpine club, hiring a certified guiding service, or going with experienced climbing partners whom you trust with your life. Overnight permits are required for camping in North Cascades National Park. 100 Summits: Bulgers in a Season    • 100 Summits: Bulgers In A Season   Follow Ross   / rossjamesphoto   https://rossjames.net/