Mount Stuart | North Ridge Ascent

This was a climb of the North Ridge of Mt Stuart with the Great Gendarme variation. The approach to the climb leaves the North Fork Teanaway River goes over Ingalls Pass past Ingalls Lake over Stuart Pass then Goat Pass crosses the Stuart Glacier and finally onto the North Ridge. The route itself ascends the ridge with over 15 pitches of rock climbing following a ridge with many places giving you views down into the Stuart glacier and Sherpa glacier. The two pitches of the Great Gendarme are rated 5.9 and are very exposed and exciting. The overall climb is rated Grade IV. The climbers are Mike Roy and Rod Nelson. Climb was done over July 29-31 with two bivouacs: one part way up the route and one on the descent. The descent is down Cascadian Couloir to Ingalls Creek up over Longs Pass and back to the parking lot at the North Fork Teanaway River.