Mount Victoria & Mount Huber (Part 1)

Mount Victoria & Mount Huber Lake O’Hara, BC July 6, 2026 Via Huber Ledges Taking advantage of a great weather window, I decided on Sunday to do a solo push for Mount Victoria and Mount Huber. That meant leaving Calgary just after midnight and driving all the way to the Lake O’Hara parking lot. I arrived shortly after 3:00 a.m., quickly got my gear together, and started hiking toward Lake O’Hara. As everyone knows, the 11 km approach is long and not the most exciting part of the day. This time it took me a little over two hours. At first light, I was making my way up the Huber Ledges. The good news was that everything was completely dry—no verglas at all. I moved quickly until I reached the first glacier, which is also the ideal bivy location if you’re planning this route over two days. Here I geared up for glacier travel and continued on. After crossing the first glacier, then the second, I passed Mount Huber and made my way to the headwall. The headwall is a sustained snow climb that leads directly to the ridge and summit block. From below it looked fairly straightforward, but once I reached the exposed snow ridge traverse, it became much more serious. The snow was soft, and the exposure was incredible. There was no room for error—every step had to be deliberate and solid. A mistake here would likely be fatal. Just before noon, I reached the true summit of Mount Victoria. After taking a few photos and videos, I didn’t waste any time. I carefully reversed the ridge, and as soon as I reached my turnaround point, I dropped off the ridge and began downclimbing the headwall. With Mount Victoria complete, it was time to focus on my second objective—Mount Huber. Compared to South Victoria, this was much more straightforward, consisting mostly of a sustained snow climb. I reached the summit, took a short break, grabbed a few more photos and videos, and then started descending. Temperatures were rising quickly, so I wanted to get off the glaciers as soon as possible. Before long, I was safely back on rock. Now it was time for the descent through the Huber Ledges. This route requires careful route-finding, and even though I knew that, I still managed to get off route. Fortunately, I always carry a rope and a few cords for situations like this. I had to improvise by building an anchor, leaving behind a carabiner, and making a rappel of about 25 metres. After that, I was out of the difficult terrain, and all that remained was the long hike back to the trailhead. Another incredible day in the Rockies, with two classic 11,000ers completed in a single push Disclaimer The content in this video is for informational and entertainment purposes only. Climbing mountains involves inherent risks and dangers. Please conduct your own thorough research, evaluate your skill level and physical condition, and consult with experienced climbers or professionals before attempting any climb. The information shared is based on my personal experience and perspective and is not intended as advice or a recommendation for others to follow. If you choose to climb this mountain after watching my video, you do so at your own risk.