Tsar Mountain (Part 1 The Approach Via KInbasket River)

Tsar Mountain 3,424 m – 11,233 ft Via Kinbasket River June 13–15, 2026 Day 0 – The Drive My friend and I planned a three-day mission to Tsar Mountain. We left Cochrane shortly after 3 p.m. and drove to Golden before continuing up the Bush River Forest Service Road all the way to Kinbasket Lake, where we parked and spent the night on Friday. Day 1 – The Approach We started hiking at 5 a.m. from Kinbasket Lake. Before long, we were deep into some bushwhacking. After a few kilometres, we reached the first river crossing. It was rough water up to our hips and strong enough to almost sweep us away. Getting our backpacks wet was not an option, as that could have meant the end of the trip before it really started. Unfortunately, that was only the beginning. The approach involved multiple river crossings back and forth across the Kinbasket River, combined with relentless bushwhacking. but eventually we reached our bivy site around 1 p.m. Arriving early gave us enough time to scout the route for the summit push. We knew the following day would be long and physically demanding. We camped at the base of the drainage that would provide our route up the mountain. Looking up at that section from camp was intimidating and gave us a good idea of what was waiting for us. Once the tent was set up, we had a meal and relaxed for the evening. I ended up crawling into my sleeping bag around 5 p.m. and slept straight through until the next morning. The crux of the approach was undoubtedly the river crossings and relentless bushwhacking. By the time we reached camp, we had covered roughly 24 km. Despite the challenges, we were in position for the summit attempt and ready for an early start the next day. Day 2 – Summit Push Once again, we started at 5 a.m., knowing we had a long and demanding day ahead of us. The objective was over 2,300 metres of elevation gain and approximately 20 km round-trip from camp. We began climbing directly up the drainage, gaining serious elevation right from the start. Eventually we reached the headwall and continued upward through increasingly technical terrain. Throughout the day we constantly transitioned between different travel modes. We switched from boots to crampons and ice tools, then to snowshoes, and back to crampons as conditions changed. The route involved a lot of technical climbing, steep snow, and large cornices on climber’s left. After completing the technical climbing, we traversed right toward the summit. For this section we roped up to safely cross the bergschrund and continue onto the upper slopes. Around 3 p.m., roughly ten hours after leaving camp, we finally reached the summit of Tsar Mountain. We took a short break to enjoy the views, capture some photos and videos, and soak in the moment before beginning the long descent. With a long way still ahead of us, we retraced our route all the way back to the bivy site, Day 3 – The Exit We started hiking out at 8 a.m., retracing our route back through the bush and river crossings. Throughout this expedition, and even before it began, I had been communicating with my friend Haldan, who was on his final mission from Tusk and Clemenceau to complete all of the 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies. He successfully set a record as the youngest and fastest person to complete the list. We agreed to exit on the same day. And to meet at the final major river crossing. From there, we hiked out together, sharing stories and talking about his final solo expedition and everything that had led up to it. Before long, we arrived back at the parking lot. From there, we loaded up the truck and began the drive back through Golden, BC, and eventually home to Calgary. Tsar Mountain proved to be a serious adventure, combining difficult route finding, relentless bushwhacking, multiple challenging river crossings, glacier travel, and technical alpine terrain. It was a physical demanding but rewarding expedition, and another unforgettable experience in the Canadian Rockies. And huge thanks to my awesome climber partner Ryan. Disclaimer The content in this video is for informational and entertainment purposes only. Climbing mountains involves inherent risks and dangers. Please conduct your own thorough research, evaluate your skill level and physical condition, and consult with experienced climbers or professionals before attempting any climb. The information shared is based on my personal experience and perspective and is not intended as advice or a recommendation for others to follow. If you choose to climb this mountain after watching my video, you do so at your own risk.