Sheikhandeh – Visiting Pakistan's Only Nuristani Village for the First Time – EP:10

After spending the night in Batrik Village, we woke up on the morning of *16 May* in a small hotel located between Batrik and Krakal villages in Brumboret Valley. We had rented the room for PKR 4,000 and after breakfast, we realized that the Chilam Joshi Festival would not begin until noon. Instead of waiting, we decided to visit a unique village that very few people know about. Just a few kilometers beyond Krakal Bazaar lies *Sheikhandeh**, the only village in Pakistan inhabited by Nuristani people. It is also the only place in the country where the **Nuristani language* is still spoken. The village is divided into two parts: *Sheikhandeh Khurd (Small Sheikhandeh)* and **Sheikhandeh Kalan (Large Sheikhandeh)**. With permission from the locals, we explored the village and its beautiful grazing fields. There we met a local resident who shared the fascinating history of the Nuristani people. He explained how many of their relatives still live across the border in Afghanistan. Before 2013, families could easily cross the border to visit each other, but after military deployment in the region, these routes were closed and cross-border movement became almost impossible. The story of Sheikhandeh is deeply connected to the history of Nuristan. Before 1885, the people living here resided on the Afghan side of the border. During the rule of Amir Abdur Rahman Khan, many communities in the region were converted to Islam. Some Nuristani families migrated across the mountains into present-day Pakistan and settled in Sheikhandeh, while others remained in Afghanistan and embraced Islam there. Historically, the Kalash people were known as the “Black Kafirs,” while the Nuristanis were often referred to as the “Red Kafirs.” The entire region was once known as **Kafiristan**, but after the spread of Islam, it was renamed **Nuristan**, meaning “Land of Light.” Over time, the Nuristanis of Sheikhandeh also accepted Islam through contact with their relatives and religious influences from across the border. We then visited the village museum, which showcases the area's ancient culture, rare photographs, traditional artifacts, and the rich history of the Nuristani people. Talking to the locals gave us a deeper understanding of life in this remote corner of Pakistan. One local man told us that he had crossed into Afghanistan seven or eight times in the past, but today the military no longer allows such travel. His brother still lives in Afghanistan, and reaching him through official border crossings is expensive and difficult. He even pointed out the military posts beyond which Afghanistan begins. After spending nearly four hours exploring Sheikhandeh and learning about its remarkable history, we said goodbye to the village and returned toward Batrik. The real reason we had come to this region was about to begin — the colorful celebrations of the **Chilam Joshi Festival**. That unforgettable experience awaits in the next episode. #Sheikhandeh #NuristaniVillage #BrumboretValley #KalashValley #Nuristan #TravelWithNabeel Subscribe to Travel with Nabeel to explore more hidden gems across Pakistan. Follow me on social media for more updates: Instagram: [  / itsnabeel218  ] TikTok: [  / travelwithnabeel  ] Facebook: [  / travelwithnabeel  ] Website: [https://www.travelwithnabeel.com] For business inquiries: 📧 Email: [[email protected]]