Piotr Sztaba: bezpieczeństwo na wyjeździe wspinaczkowym

We met in the Wolski Forest, among Polish crags, but we talked about something that, after recent events, has become incredibly important for climbers. A fatal accident on Kalymnos, where an entire anchor and another anchor were dislodged, broke the paradigm that safety on the rocks is ensured by two anchor points. A climber who made no mistakes died. I spoke with Piotr Sztaba – co-owner of the Kilimanjaro climbing school, a PZA instructor, and a team leader with decades of experience – about why this happened and how to mitigate risk on your own trips. In our conversation, we develop a specific safety protocol for international rock climbing trips: – What stress corrosion cracking and intergranular corrosion in coastal areas are and why old stainless steel can crack without warning? – The differences between expansion anchors, 316 steel, A2 steel, and titanium, and how to read the age and condition of roads in a guidebook. – A review of the regions (Mani, Corsica, San Vito, Calpe, Kalymnos) – where re-clipping is quick and where it's worth being vigilant. – Safe retreat: Prusik, blocker, mailon, and practical tips. – Mandatory equipment: helmet, first aid kit, first aid. – Rescue operations in Greece vs. Alpine countries – Why a holiday rock climbing trip can turn out to be an adventure "expedition in Europe." – Emergency communications: calling local services, ICE contact, insurance, and satellite communicators (Garmin inReach). The conclusion, however, is optimistic: it's better to climb than not to climb – just do it consciously. Interviewer: Piotr Turkot, klimatanie.pl Table of contents: 00:00 Introduction and guest introduction – Piotr Sztaba 02:22 Accident on Kalymnos – first reaction 04:46 Corrosion points: expansion anchors vs. glued anchors 07:09 Why Polish rocks are safer (316 rings) 08:34 Area overview: Manikia, Kalymnos, Corsica 10:21 Kalymnos – rapid re-climbing after an accident 11:21 San Vito (Sicily) and titanium rings 12:30 "Wild" areas without guides – the greatest risk 13:02 Spain (Calpe, Alicante) and misleading signs of corrosion 13:36 How to plan a trip: road age and a guide 16:38 Titanium vs. stainless steel – how to tell them apart 18:14 What to avoid on the road and when to avoid it Retreat 19:34 Safe descent: Prusik or blocker? 20:34 Reconstruction of the accident on Kalymnos 22:22 Patent for descent with Prusik and mailon 24:48 Mandatory equipment: helmet and mailon 26:01 First aid kit and first aid 27:51 Rescue operation - "expedition in Europe" 32:11 Where rescue services operate quickly (Italy, Spain, Alps) 33:50 Contacts: family, insurance, local emergency services 34:48 Communication without phone coverage: satellite and Garmin inReach 36:35 Piotr's plans: trip to Turkey 38:01 Favorite areas