Sailing Up the River Dart to Totnes | Classic Yacht Cruise, Mishaps & Moorings

Chapter timings 0:00 Intro 0:38 Entering Dartmouth harbour 1:25 Passing Brittania Royal Naval College 2:07 Chain ferry across the Dart 2:24 RNSA moorings 2:31 Kingswear Castle coal-fired paddle steamer 3:06 Greenway Quay 4:08 Passing Dittisham 5:59 Stoke Gabriel 6:57 Bow Creek 8:49 Debris in the water 10:49 The wreck site of the other Kingswear Castle (see comments for interesting correction!) 13:48 Arriving in Totnes 15:26 Baltic Wharf (not where we moored up!) 16:13 Returning downriver in the early morning mist 18:20 Anchored at Bow Creek 19:02 End In this episode of Meandering Molly, we take Molly of Mylor, our Cornish Crabber 26, on a memorable coastal and river passage into one of the most characterful waterways in the South West of England. After crossing Start Bay, we make landfall and enter the beautiful River Dart, motorsailing upriver towards Totnes and enjoying everything this historic river has to offer. The River Dart is always a joy, and this passage is no exception. As we work our way upstream, we pass the Dartmouth steam railway hugging the shoreline, a wonderful reminder of how closely rail and river history are intertwined here. Before long, the unmistakable silhouette of Kingswear Castle comes into view. Seeing this coal-fired paddle steamer underway never fails to stop us in our tracks, a living piece of maritime history that is perfectly at home on the Dart. The river is busy and alive. We share the channel with water skiers, paddle boarders, and small craft of every description, while along the banks lie some truly fascinating moored yachts—classic hulls, working boats, and river dwellers that reward a slow, observant passage. We also note something less charming: floating debris in the water, a reminder that even these beautiful rivers are not immune to modern pressures. Our destination is Totnes, and we had arranged to overnight at *Baltic Wharf. However, as often happens in cruising life, a small misunderstanding about the mooring instructions leads to an unexpected turn of events. We secure Molly in the wrong place and, as the tide ebbs away, find ourselves drying out when we hadn’t planned to. The consequences arrive early the next morning, when we are politely—but firmly—asked to move on. We also found that the tidal prediction from Navionics for Totnes was not very accurate at all and we ended up dried out when we had expected to remain afloat. Fortunately, the evening itself is far more successful. Totnes delivers as always, and we enjoy a relaxed night ashore at the *Albert Inn*, sharing good food, good conversation, and a few well-earned pints of Einstein beer after a long day on the water. The episode concludes with a quieter, more contemplative moment, as Molly settles peacefully at the head of Bow Creek. It is a fitting end to a passage that combines classic cruising, minor mishaps, historic scenery, and the simple pleasure of taking a traditional yacht into the heart of a tidal river. If you enjoy classic sailing boats, traditional rigs, real-world cruising experiences, and the unique character of the River Dart, this episode is very much for you. Please consider subscribing to Meandering Molly for more thoughtful, unhurried sailing aboard a Cornish Crabber 26.