CBR300R - Engine Teardown Part 2: How to remove the Cylinder, Piston, and Clutch

With the cams and cylinder head out of the way, we can now take off the cylinder itself, and the piston. We'll also take out the clutch. This process should take less than an hour if your work space set up, and you have a good system in place for organizing and storing your parts and fasteners. Start by removing the water pipe - it's the only thing left tying the cylinder to the engine block. Two 8mm bolts, and it comes off easy. Now lift the cylinder off, and careful that the piston doesnt bang into the block. The piston is held to the connecting rod by the wrist pin. That comes out super easy once you use needle nose pliers to extract the spring clip. With the wrist pin out, the piston comes right off. The clutch sits behind the right crank case cover. Remove the cover by pulling out the ten 8mm bolts. Nine of them are short, but the one near the water hose barb is about 2x as long. Rotate the clutch lifter arm counter clockwise while pulling the cover so it will let go of the lifter piece. Remove the five 10mm clutch lifter plate bolts and clutch springs. Remove the clutch lifter plate, the clutch discs, the clutch plates, the judder spring, and the lifter piece. De-stake the main bolt. Anti-rotate the inner clutch carrier by threading some paracord between the inner and outer, and then use a 24 mm (or 15/16 inch) socket to loosen the nut. Pull out the inner carrier free of the shaft splines by using paracord to pull parallel to the axis of the shaft. Pull out the outer carrier, and finally, the needle bearings. Here's the link to the MC garage video about the difference between wet clutches and dry clutches:    • Wet Clutch vs. Dry Clutch - What’s the Dif...   Filmed with a Canon Vixia HF R800 and edited in Lightworks 14.5. Voiceover recorded in Audacity with a Blue Yeti mic (right after i recovered from strep).