Full Climb [CC]: Granite Peak 'East Ridge,' of the Beartooth Mountains in Montana, Part 1

Granite Peak—the apex of Montana for you "highpointers"—is among the three most fearsome mountaineering achievements that are not Denali. Of course, those other two being Mount Rainier and Gannett Peak. Specifically, Granite has the most technical rock. But it is also everything else which makes this a proud summit for any climber to stand on. The numerous approaches, and variations, are all rather long, arduous, and almost legendary. Still, heading out from West Rosebud Trailhead, then a long traverse across the baren, rocky "Froze-to-Death Plateau," up east ridge, and finally the summit block, is considered the standard/classic method. It must be noted that another path, starting from Aero Lakes Trailhead, through to Sky Top Lakes and up the summit via non-climbing southwest couloir, is increasingly being utilized. Although commonly labelled 'East Ridge' as the route, the entire referenced ridge is scrambling terrain only. Real fifth-class pitches do not start until a notch—incorrectly recognized as a "snow bridge" in early season—right below the summit block. Essentially, climbers are moving diagonally up the south face. Several distinct problems appear, as chimneys, slabs, and face. During which, the traverse to reach a final chimney is the crux, with higher or lower lines involving sporadic, brief moves. Done correctly, it is 5.4 maximum, while being (off-course) cliffed out or boxed in may require moves up to 5.6 to escape. To exit, mountaineers can simply reverse and backtrack through all miseries the mighty and forceful Granite has inflicted upon them. But "simply" is used to cope, and hope for success, as the data is depressing. Roundtrip is approximately 25 miles and 7,725 feet gained. The former metric is the base and dependent on how skillful one navigates through "Froze-to-Death," while the latter includes two separate elevation drops which must be regained both ways. Which is why most parties settle for an overnight. Speaking of, choose that temporary bed-under-a-canvas-home wisely. The "Plateau" is popular real estate, offering a low and high camps. Both, though, are fully exposed from any menacing weather from above. That is a heavily weighed reminder, because sudden/intense/hastily moving storms are how the Beartooths greet its visitors, and may just "freeze them to death." Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/MdR3Pf1m6xp... Route: West Rosebud Trail-Phantom Creek Trail-"Froze-To-Death Plateau"-'East Ridge' Type: Out-And-Back Distance: ~25 miles Elevation Gain: ~7,725 feet Climbing Length: 507 feet Structure: Chimneys; slabs; face; traverse Material: Primary granite; secondary crystalline rocks Rating: 5.4 Pitch: 8 Location: Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, Shoshone National Forest, Montana, USA Date/Time: 2024-08-20 1651; 2024-08-21 0814 Chapters: 00:00:00 Title; Important; Itinerary; Trailhead 00:58:49 Mystic Lake (overlook) 01:11:27 Phantom Creek Trail junction 02:35:05 Departing Phantom Creek Trail for “Froze-to-Death Plateau” 03:10:40 Low camp on “Froze-to-Death Plateau” 04:11:06 High camp on “Froze-to-Death Plateau” #mountaineering #rockclimbing #LeaveNoTrace