両国で見つけた！ ラルフ ローレン 名作ブレザーの原型をいまでも売っている、「古き良きメンズショップ」が凄すぎて。【山ちゃんの洋品天国＃01】

[The original Ralph Lauren navy blazer discovered in Ryogoku!] *Due to various circumstances, Namikiya is currently temporarily closed. We are planning to relocate and reopen at the end of February. Please check our website: www.shop-namikiya.jp or contact us by email at [email protected] Nice to meet you. My name is Eisuke Yamashita, and I work as a freelance fashion editor. Thanks to an invitation from my former editor at LEON, my kind and esteemed senior colleague, Mr. Ogiyama, I've been asked to write a column for FORZA STYLE. Please keep me in mind. After 44 years of living, your attitude toward clothing has changed quite a bit, and to be honest, things like "trends" and "popularity" don't really matter anymore! I'm also sick and tired of bland shops that stock only popular items. What I'm looking for right now is a store with a "rich" and "unique" selection that fully reflects the owner's tastes. Only those who understand should understand. FORZA STYLE must be quite "eccentric" to be allowed to introduce such a store...no, a "clothing store" - a type of store that's now an endangered species. So, let's go! For our first and memorable installment, we'll be introducing Namikiya, a select shop in the downtown area of ​​Ryogoku. Its display, which feels like a classic men's shop, is truly moving. It's surprising to find a select shop in Ryogoku, but in fact, this is a very established establishment. With an extremely high-end and high-brow selection, including ready-to-wear shoes from the now-defunct British bespoke shoemaker Henry Maxwell, it apparently captivated the men of this area, which was once home to a thriving fabric wholesaler and textile manufacturer. Then, about 10 years ago, the current owner, Nakajima Hiroshi, took over and the business evolved into what it is today: a select shop that also sells clothing. Nakajima is in fact a veteran with over 50 years of industry experience, and is a living encyclopedia of the select shop industry, having been involved in importing prestigious American and British brands for many years. Actually, Nakajima started his career at the Levi Strauss Japan branch, the predecessor to Levi's Japan! That's why Namikiya is home to a wealth of treasures that even I don't know about. Deadstock items such as the now-unobtainable Henry Maxwell, and used shoes that customers have surrendered are all items that I would definitely buy if the size fit. And the corner that excites me every time I visit the store is the one that stocks traditional European and American masterpieces. The store is filled with traditional Western items that focus on their country of origin, such as American-made button-down shirts from Gitman Brothers, British-made knitwear from William Rocky, and Austrian-made Tyrolean jackets from Geiger. But there's also a lot of deadstock here, so it's first come, first served! By the way, I first discovered Namikiya about 10 years ago, but I've pretty much digged through all the famous knitwear from brands like Corgi, John Medley, and Fanni Lehmermeyer, and there's nothing left! So, to be honest, I didn't really want to introduce this store. While Ogiyama was digging through two-pleat corduroy pants from a brand called Wedge & Wood (which Nakajima describes as "another Usher brand," but I've never heard of either...), my eye was drawn to a rack of deadstock American-made tailored jackets. Now that Southwick, known for sewing Brooks Brothers, has ceased operations, there are almost no factories in the United States that can sew ready-made tailored jackets. The brand name (especially "Bra Notch") and tag design (especially "Bra Notch") may seem a bit questionable at first glance, but they're actually incredibly valuable! I've recently started collecting Willis & Geiger, a long-established brand, with elaborate designs inspired by hunting and military styles, many of which are impossible to reproduce today. If you find one, you should snap it up immediately, but I'll run out of time to buy them, so please don't buy them! After a dopamine-fueled, embarrassing fitting session, I purchased a navy blazer from Country Britches today. While this brand may be unknown—or even no longer exists—its provenance is genuine. This brand was launched by Sal Cesarani, a designer who was in charge of manufacturing when Ralph Lauren first founded the company. Apparently, in the 1980s, it was stocked in many select shops in Japan as well. What's amazing about this blazer is that it's exactly like a Polo Ralph Lauren blazer from the late 1970s to early 1980s, with slightly wider shoulders, an angled collar, a deep V-neck, a low drawstring, and a slightly shorter length! Ralph Lauren used to wear styles like this all the time. To put it in the words of Tokyo Sports, "it made my son go to heaven!" So I couldn't resist and ended up buying it, but there's no end to the desires of a fashion lover. Because an outfit wouldn't be complete without matchin...