Greg Noll's talks to about with life Tracey Holmes - shot in Sydney 2016

BIG wave surfing legend Greg Noll came to my home town Sydney in Australia back in November 2016 and i was lucky enough to interview him for my up & coming movie The BIG WAVE PROJECT. I asked Australia's premier sport journalist Tracey Holmes if she who be happy interview this amazing man about his life at the beach which she agreed. This is what he talked about. Early times/life on the Hawaiian islands - Makaha Working for the California life guards to get to Hawaii. Heading up to the North Shore. How worked surfing amongst a crowd. The early days, hanging out more with the Hawaiian guys. Making boards in Wahiawa for the locals boys. Just surf because we loved it, not into contests. Talks about XXL and why you don't ride big waves for money. The dangers of big wave surfing. Talks about Greg Long's brush with death at the Cortes Bank. Striving to ride a bigger wave.. Talks about riding the biggest wave at Makaha. Whats it was like almost drowning although get used to it. After 35 years, getting over the idea of riding the biggest wave. Riding the first wave ever surfed at Waimea. Talks about those early years at Waimea Bay. Talks about oceanographer Ricky Grigg. Riding Giants. Explaining to someone about riding waves.. relating to Australia Whats happening these days in riding big waves and how its changed. How the surf cameramen has contributed to the sport. Talks about Midget Farrelly. Goes back talking about competing to come to Australia as a Aussie lifeguard which he did. Where's the sport going - maybe the 100 foot wave. Talks about the legends he surfed with back in the day. Goes on to talk about a classic Hawaiian friend/surfer Kealoha Kaio. The Band Of Brothers. George Downing Sex & adrenaline Living on the North Shore with no money. 'Livin like rats on fumes'.. On Buzzy Trent. More on George Downing Then on Eddy Aikau & Clyde. Making surf movies.. Getting a disclaimer from Greg for the interview..ha ha ➡️ Like and Subscribe and share our channel ! 👉    / @surfingvisions   Activate 🔔 not to miss the next swell chase Follow and leave a comment allow us to keep bringing you these clips FREE from around the world featuring the best vision of BIG WAVE SURFING! TO SUPPORT OUR CHANNEL AND OUR INDEPENDENT WORK ▶️ https://paypal.me/surfingvisions 🎥 Tim Bonython insta/@TIM_BONYTHON_SWELLCHASERS © All footage contained ©TimBonythonProductions 2025 - All rights reserved This content is protected by copyright and not be used for AI training For all derivatives and usage permission contact us [email protected] Thanks you for watching FOLLOW US: WWW.SURFINGVISIONS.COM https://vimeo.com/timbonython/vod_pages   / tim_bonython_swellchasers