2 ans, 60 séances : l'obsession «Chicken Deluxe» 9a+

“Chicken Deluxe” isn’t your average 9a+. Originally, it was an 8C+ riddled with holds chipped and glued with Sika, first climbed in 2002 by the Toulouse-based maverick, Éric Siguier. Today, it’s a line that has become almost entirely natural—and the hardest route ever climbed by Lucien Martinez. Legendary Routes, the new format with Lucien Martinez, explores snippets of climbing history, sharing, passing on knowledge, and laughing together around our common passion. In this fifth episode, we focus on Chicken Deluxe (9a+), a legendary route on the Super Manjoc crag. We discuss Sika, the ethics of route setting, and the concept of flow in climbing. Lucien shares his experience on this extreme route, his doubts, and his methods for sending a route close to his maximum grade. Chapters: 00:00 Introduction – Lucien Martinez's Hardest Route 01:17 Chicken Deluxe: A Legendary Route at Super Manjoc 03:12 The Story of the Original 8C+ Version 07:15 Why Lucien Decides to Try the Route 09:31 The Sika Holds Break… and Everything Changes 13:01 Route Setter Eric Siguier, a Local Legend 18:30 Transforming the Route into a Natural Line 23:21 Finding the Methods and the First Cruxes 27:35 An Extreme Project: 2 Years of Work 31:30 Mental Strategies for Succeeding on a Limiting Route 38:34 Managing Pressure and Automating Moves 45:31 The Day of the Ascent 48:26 The Grade: 9a+ or 9b? 52:01 Emulation with Fabrice Landry 57:30 Conclusion Every week, BlokCast is for climbers who want to go beyond mere performance. Athletes, experts, and key figures in the climbing community share their experiences to broaden your knowledge and enrich your understanding of climbing. Follow Voies de Légende: Instagram:   / lumartinez_93   Website: https://www.voiesdelegende.com/ 🎧 A podcast to learn, be inspired, and progress in climbing. Thumbnail photo by Arthur Delicque: Instagram:   / signarthur_   Discover other episodes:    / @blok-cast   Follow the climbing media outlet BlokCorp: Instagram:   / blokcorp   Website: https://blokcorp.fr/ #climbing #climbing