The Twins (West Peak, North Peak & Twins Tower) Part 2

The Twins & Studfields Expedition Icefields Parkway AB – Columbia Icefield AB May 2–4, 2026 The Twins expedition. We summited in this order: West Twin Peak — 3,360 m / 11,023 ft South Twin Peak — 3,580 m / 11,745 ft North Twin — 3,730 m / 12,347 ft Twins Tower — 3,640 m / 11,942 ft Day 0 I left Calgary around noon on Friday, made a quick stop in Canmore, and arrived at the Icefields Parkway around 4 pm. I had plenty of time to get organized while waiting for the guys to arrive. KN was supposed to get there around 6 pm, while Andrew and Emmitt were arriving closer to 9 pm. We were all pretty fired up to start this 3-day Twins expedition. Day 1 The plan was to get a few hours of sleep before the early start. At 3 am we got up and started getting ready. In less than 30 minutes we were already making our way across the Athabasca Glacier. This year the route went climber’s right, passing below the seracs and following the ramp up onto the Columbia Icefield. From there we skied all the way to our bivy site. Travel conditions were pretty mellow the entire way. We reached camp around 4 pm and quickly set everything up. After dinner I crashed pretty early so I could fully recharge for the next day’s summit push. Day 2 Alpine start. By 4:20 am we were already on our way toward the Twins. We decided to summit South Twin first. The crux for this summit was approximately 50 metres of WI2 ice, which we climbed and downclimbed as well. For this expedition I decided to bring one technical and one non-technical ice tool — my Grivel Dark Machine and Petzl Gully. After this section we were soon standing on the summit of South Twin. The views were unreal. I took the mandatory summit photos and a quick 360 video before we started descending and downclimbing back to our skis. I put my skis on and skied for a few minutes before transitioning back to skimo mode. Not long after, another quick transition to crampons was needed in order to bootpack up to the false summit of West Twin. We left our skis there and continued along the summit ridge until we reached the top. Same thing again — a few photos, videos, and then it was time to descend back to the skis. From there we skied more terrain before once again switching back to skimo and crampons to bootpack a short 20-metre section. Skis back on, and we continued all the way to the summit of North Twin. It was very windy up there, but from this summit we could clearly see our final objective — the most technical peak of the trip, Twins Tower. We quickly switched back to crampons and left our skis below North Twin. Alright, let’s do it. The North Twin to Twins Tower traverse follows a narrow snow ridge with exposure on both sides. Soon enough we reached the summit of Twins Tower and continued a little farther along the ridge. The views from this summit were incredible. We took a group summit selfie, then descended the same way and climbed back up to North Twin once again. From there we retraced our steps all the way back to camp. We were definitely happy to make it back to the bivy after such a long day. Now it was time to relax and decide if tomorrow we would go for Studfield and Mount Cromwell. Disclaimer The content in this video is for informational and entertainment purposes only. Climbing mountains involves inherent risks and dangers. Please conduct your own thorough research, evaluate your skill level and physical condition, and consult with experienced climbers or professionals before attempting any climb. The information shared is based on my personal experience and perspective and is not intended as advice or a recommendation for others to follow. If you choose to climb this mountain after watching my video, you do so at your own risk.