Was macht Wellen zu Monstern? | 42 - Die Antwort auf fast alles | ARTE

Statistically, a large ship is lost at sea almost every seven days. One cause: rogue waves that appear seemingly out of nowhere. Unlike tsunamis, there are currently no warning or forecasting methods for them, as science still knows surprisingly little about these freak waves. For centuries, many people considered rogue waves to be mere sailors' tales. It wasn't until 1995 that their existence was scientifically confirmed. On the Draupner gas platform in the North Sea, a laser was able to record a wave almost 26 meters high. According to the wave models prevalent at the time, this was impossible. Almost by chance, this wave changed research forever. Researchers are considering three theories about the formation of freak waves. The first was the current model: opposing currents reduce the wavelength, compressing the waves – and causing them to build up into a giant wave. However, rogue waves also occur in regions without strong currents. Scientists therefore describe a second effect: superposition. In this linear process, faster, longer waves catch up with shorter, slower waves. They overlap and thus form rogue waves. However, in some places, rogue waves occur more frequently than can be explained by the linear theory. Therefore, a third theory of their formation has been discussed for several years: In nonlinear modulation instability, a wave grows into a rogue wave through a highly complex energy "theft." The debate centers on whether linear or nonlinear effects are responsible for the formation of rogue waves on the open ocean. This question is fundamental for shipping: Because the more nonlinear the oceans become, the larger and more dangerous rogue waves are! Documentary by David Donschen (Germany 2022, 25 min) Sources and further links: 1. How and where do rogue waves form? ``` Linear, nonlinear, or something else entirely: https://www.geographie.ruhr-uni-bochu... How rogue waves form in cross seas: https://www.cambridge.org/core/journa... How rogue waves are caused by modulation instability: https://intranet.tuhh.de/presse/press... There are also rogue waves in the German Bight Rogue Waves: https://blogs.helmholtz.de/kuestenfor... 2. Disasters Caused by Rogue Waves MS Bremen Disaster: https://www.spiegel.de/wissenschaft/i... The Case of the Munich: https://www.ndr.de/geschichte/1978-Co... 3. Predicting Rogue Waves: Wave Radar Against Rogue Waves: https://www.welt.de/print-wams/articl... #waves #oceans #science Video available on YouTube until October 8, 2024 Subscribe to ARTE's YouTube channel:    / artede   Follow us on social media: Facebook:   / arte.tv   Twitter:   / artede   Instagram:   / arte.tv