Один выжил из шести. Дхаулагири, 2024: как погибла вся команда

In October 2024, a group of five experienced Russian climbers died on the Himalayan eight-thousander Dhaulagiri (8,167 m, Nepal), the seventh-highest and one of the most dangerous peaks in the world. The team from the St. Petersburg Mountaineering School, led by Alexander Dusheiko, was climbing in pure alpine style: without oxygen and without Sherpa support above base camp. On the morning of October 6, the group set out to assault the summit and soon lost contact. According to preliminary reports, the entire team fell on a dangerous traverse beneath the summit ridge, at an altitude of approximately 7,600 meters, and fell at least 500 meters; a snow slide is also believed to be a likely cause. The perished were Alexander Dusheiko, Oleg Kruglov, Vladimir Chistikov, Mikhail Nosenko, and Dmitry Shpilevoy. Valery Shamalo was the only survivor—he turned back in time, realizing that the dangerous traverse on the descent would have to be done at night. The bodies were removed from the slope by helicopter only 11 days later. In this issue: what is Dhaulagiri and why it is a "killer mountain"; what is the death zone and alpine climbing style; how the tragedy unfolded and why the entire team failed; the deadly paradox of the team on the steep slope; what decision saved one of the climbers; how the rescue operations unfolded. Also included are examples of other mountain tragedies (K2 in 2008, Everest in 1996, Peak Pobeda in 1955, Peak Lenin in 1990). This is a difficult topic: we speak of the dead with respect, without the gruesome details. ⏱ TIMESTAMPS 0:00 — Dhaulagiri, October 2024 2:30 — "Killer Mountain" and the Death Zone 5:00 — Alpine Style and a Team of Masters 8:00 — A Fatal Assault and a Dangerous Traverse 11:00 — Rope Break 14:00 — A Decision That Saved One 16:30 — Rescue Work and the Rope Paradox 19:00 — Causes and Similar Tragedies 23:00 — Lessons and Memory 📌 SOURCES • RIA Novosti (08.10.2024): https://ria.ru/20241008/alpinisty-197... • RBC (08.10.2024): https://www.rbc.ru/society/08/10/2024... • Channel One (October 8, 2024): https://www.1tv.ru/news/2024-10-08/48... • Fontanka (October 16, 2024): https://www.fontanka.ru/2024/10/16/74... • Explorersweb — Five Russian Climbers Dead on Dhaulagiri: https://explorersweb.com/five-russian...