居酒屋の「お通し」不要論浮上…物価高で　「食べ放題」の一方で「廃止」の店も（2026年05月29日）

(Aired May 28, 2026) This restaurant boasts thick slices of daikon radish thoroughly infused with broth, piping hot konjac, and thick fried tofu. The steaming broth and fragrant aroma of their oden are what make this restaurant's "otōshi" (appetizer). Koronagi Area Manager, Nakao Yuuki: For 550 yen, the otōshi is oden. And it's all-you-can-eat. The oden otōshi is all-you-can-eat. Every day, the restaurant is packed with customers who come specifically for the otōshi. Customers have commented, "I came for the oden, for the all-you-can-eat otōshi," "I was surprised to hear it was an otōshi," and "I came because I wanted to eat oden." However, now, there's a growing debate about whether this otōshi is even necessary. Locals commented, "I don't really need the appetizer," "If I'm going to be charged for it, I'd rather choose my own," and "I don't think it's necessary. When something I don't like is served, I wonder if I'm really paying for it." Amidst rising prices, many feel that unsolicited appetizers are a "waste of money." In this context, a popular fried chicken and craft beer restaurant in Fujisawa City, Kanagawa Prefecture, made a decision in May… They aim to increase customer numbers by eliminating the appetizer. Beer Maison's Chef, Takahiro Kudo: (Q. Reason for eliminating the appetizer) We started at 300 yen, and then raised it to 380 yen as prices rose. We were missing out on customers who just wanted a quick drink and leave, so eliminating the appetizer is more of a plus. Customers responded to the decision to eliminate the appetizer with comments like, "Honestly, I don't need it. It's a waste if it fills me up." However, since the appetizer (otōshi) had been a significant source of income for the restaurant, the decision to abolish it was "a difficult one." Chef Takahiro Kudo of Biamaison: At its peak, the appetizer accounted for over 200,000 yen (per month). According to food journalist Rikiya Yamaji, this appetizer is a "unique Japanese culture" that spread as a form of hospitality to guests. Food journalist Rikiya Yamaji: Originally, the appetizer was something served at the beginning, essentially a "preview" of the day's dishes and ingredients. Yamaji himself has had memorable encounters with appetizers, such as ten colorful small dishes and freshly made dashi-rolled omelets. However, regarding the current situation, he says, "The appetizer is quite a problem, even with inbound tourists. Some people think it's unreasonable to be charged 500 yen or more for something they didn't order." The custom of serving appetizers (otōshi), a unique aspect of Japanese hospitality, has sparked debate about its elimination. Some argue that "younger people might feel it's a waste," others agree that "since many people just drink and leave, I agree with eliminating appetizers altogether," and still others feel that "if it takes a while for the food to arrive, it's good to have something to serve." Amidst this, Nakao Naka, area manager of "Koronagi," a restaurant famous for its all-you-can-eat oden appetizer, said, "It's actually our signature dish, so we see it as an opportunity to let people get to know our restaurant with an appetizer that exceeds expectations." Experts say that now is a turning point for appetizers. Food journalist Rikiya Yamaji: "With the general trend of price increases in the restaurant industry, the burden is increasing. I think the ideal appetizer is one that reflects the restaurant's unique character and that customers appreciate."