廣州｜順德｜佛山｜粵菜｜煲仔飯｜廣式斬料｜早茶｜乾炒牛河｜魚蛋粉｜腸粉｜魚生｜牛雜豬雜｜乾蒸排骨｜雙皮奶｜煎堆｜艇仔粥｜冬瓜盅火鍋｜魚皮｜鮮牛肉火鍋#街头美食 #中國美食 #廣州

As the morning light begins to shine, white mist rises from the porridge shop under the Xiguan arcade. The chef stirs a pot of boat porridge with a brass spoon, and the fat of the pig offal melts in the rice slurry, floating up with tiny silver lights. The porridge base must be made with Guilin oil to stick to the rice, boiled over high heat and simmered over low heat, and when the rice grains are about to melt, the ingredients are added - this is the highest realm of "porridge water". The old lady next door is using bamboo chopsticks to cut open the rice rolls, and the translucent rice skin is trembling with shrimps, and topped with local peanut oil, which is the most ancient footnote of Cantonese breakfast tea. Foshan chefs are good at borrowing the shape of nature. They take the black-skinned winter melon before the frost falls, cut it into pieces, dig it into a jar, and carve it into a celadon jar. It is filled with scallops, fresh shrimps, coix seeds, night-scented flowers, and old chicken broth, and steamed in a steamer. The melon flesh gradually melts and turns into a translucent glass cup. The soup is as clear as the water in a pond in early spring, but it contains the freshness of mountains and seas. The best part is that when diners scrape the melon wall with a porcelain spoon, the soft melon meat wrapped in the soup marrow actually gives them the fun of "biting spring". This dish was originally a boat dish of the Tanka people, but now it has become the finale of the banquet in Foshan. Lingnan is hot and humid, so the ancient recipe of "using turtle in cooking" was born to remove dampness. Foshan's time-honored brands must choose three-year-old grass turtles, with 24 herbs such as Chinese yam, raw earth, and dandelion, and simmered over charcoal for six hours. The soup is amber in color, bitter and sweet, and the turtle shell glue sticks to the lips like silk. In the old days, drugstores often used "turtle linggao" to attract customers, but real experts only recognized this bowl of hot soup - the bitter and sweet place is just like the survival philosophy of Lingnan people in dealing with the hot summer. The fireworks in Shunde start from the roast goose stalls in the evening. In front of the ancient clay pot in Huanglian Village, the chef uses the residual heat of lychee wood to bake the freshly baked goose. When the amber crispy skin "clicks" and cracks, the oil drops are dripping on the Chencun vermicelli at the bottom. The most moving market sounds are hidden in the clay pot rice restaurant in Ronggui. Raw rice and yellow eel are cooked together, and a spoonful of ten-year tangerine peel rice wine is poured on the table. With a "sizzling" sound, the eel blood turns into black sauce and seeps into the rice crust. The gesture of the proprietress lifting the lid is a vivid Lingnan version of the "open the lid and eat" in "Suiyuan Food List". At night in Daliang, the sweet fragrance of double skin milk floats in the narrow alleys of Jinbang Street. Buffalo milk forms two layers of wrinkled skin in the coarse pottery bowl, and a spoonful of it is like snow covered with spring mud. The master said that the secret lies in the buffaloes in Longjiang Town - those who eat phoenix eye fruit have the most mellow milk. The fried milk in the corner food stall is another scene. Fresh milk and crab meat fly in the iron wok, condensing into cloud-like snow blocks, which is in line with Yuan Mei's saying that "the fresh ones have their original taste". The taste of these three cities ultimately comes down to the word "wok flavor". When the last dish of fried clams with black bean and pepper was served, the firelight illuminated the sweat beads on the chef's forehead, and suddenly I understood: the so-called world of food is nothing more than a century of focus, sparks between iron woks and clay pots.