Легенда альпинизма, ЗМС, Н. Тотмянин. Беседа о п. Победы, Лхоцзе Ю. Стена, К-2, Жанну..15.07.2025

#Nikolay Totmyanin #mountaineering #mountains #2025 #AsiaMountains #AlpsVRN #LeninPeak #FAR #Kyrgyzstan #vento Films about outstanding expeditions with N. Totmyanin: 1) K2 Russian Face - West Face 2007    • Русская стена вершины К2   2) Lhotse South Face 1990    • Lhotse South Face1990 USSR short   3) Jannu North Face 2004    • Запах Вершины.mp4   Interview - with the legend of world mountaineering Nikolay Anatolyevich Totmyanin, Honored Master of Sports in mountaineering, Winner of the world's highest award, the Golden Ice Axe. Seven-time Snow Leopard. Three incredible first ascents of the world's highest walls, previously unclimbed. Over 200 of the most difficult categorized climbs. Over 60 high-altitude climbs above 7,000 meters. Since 2021, when I first became interested in mountaineering, I had a dream – to meet Nikolai Anatolyevich in person and ask him about his incredible expeditions and mountaineering in general. This was, in many ways, the determining factor in my 2025 ascent of Lenin Peak in a commercial format (although I had originally planned a sporting format) under Nikolai's guidance. And finally, I had the good fortune to meet him and interview him in July 2025. He's incredibly experienced, technically savvy—an engineer, physicist, and mathematician—and he thinks and expresses himself very logically and clearly. At 66, he's in incredible physical shape—he gives all of us younger guys a run for our money. He carried heavier loads, including ropes, on the climb to Lenin Peak, and upon arriving at the high camp, he immediately grabbed a shovel without stopping to prepare a tent site. At the same time, he's very modest and down-to-earth—no pomposity. I really remember our first meeting at base camp: after a long, tiring seven-hour journey, we were unloading our heavy bags—and he was cheerful, in excellent shape, his eyes sparkling! I'm happy I got to meet him—we talked a lot about mountains, people, Soviet and modern mountaineering, and gear. This interview only includes a small part of it. After descending from Pobeda Peak, Nikolai felt unwell and passed away on August 11th. Blessed memory to a legend and a good man. 00:00 - Introduction 00:31 - Childhood and the beginning of his mountaineering career 04:50 - The First Mountain 06:05 - Role models in mountaineering 09:34 - The First Soviet Everest Expedition 1982 11:13 - The first 7-thousanders and the Snow Leopard 15:13 - Pobeda Peak 7439 25:44 - About solo ascents 26:26 - South Face of Communism Peak 7495 29:00 - Kanchenjunga 1989 32:30 - About mountaineering legends Bukreev and Bershov. Khrischatom 36:10 - Lhotse 8516 South Face, first ascent 1990 1:05:50 - Jannu North Face, first ascent 2004 1:07:52 - K2 West Face, first ascent 2007 1:11:20 - Dhaulagiri 2008 1:16:50 - Unclimbed Walls 8000 1:21:42 - Lead Falls 1:28:05 - Avalanches 1:29:25 - Training 1:39:55 - Hardening and Frost Resistance 1:41:50 - Dream Plans 1:45:27 - About Writing a Book 1:45:58 - Book Recommendations 1:50:25 - Conclusion, Wishes https://vk.com/bkolomensky #Boriskolomenskiy