SASSOLUNGO 3.181m 🧗🏻‍♂️ Una Delle Vie Più Belle Delle Dolomiti ⛰

A long and complex climb that winds across multiple mountainsides. Technically not difficult, it never reaches grade IV and is on consistently excellent rock, but not to be underestimated. It requires good experience and a good sense of direction to choose the most profitable route, as well as a certain level of ease with the rope. However, it's all rewarded with magnificent views that change perspective and scenery several times during the ascent and descent, making this normal route perhaps the most complete and rewarding in the entire Dolomite range. Our starting point is the Toni Demetz Refuge, located at Forcella Sassolungo at an altitude of 2,681 m, reached by cable car to conserve energy for the climb. From there, descend on the opposite side, still on trail 525, towards the Vicenza refuge, losing about 100 meters in altitude until, near a hairpin bend, a clear trail branches off to the right, leading to the equally clear Cengia dei Fassani, right on the SW face of Sassolungo. This peak dominates the Val Gardena and is one of the most impressive peaks in the Dolomites. The accessible southwest face, on which the normal route is located, contrasts with a vast, high, and extremely steep northeast face, reserved for expert climbers. The normal route is quite long and rather complicated, technically not difficult but with many sections on often exposed rock, especially along the Cengia dei Fassani and on the traverse to the glacier, as well as sections on snow or ice. The rock climbing remains around grade II/III throughout the route, with exposed climbing that can be time-consuming if you climb in single pitches or nerve-wracking if you simul-climb to save time. A beautiful, coveted, and highly satisfying climb, offering varied and enjoyable climbing on good rock, but recommended for experienced climbers on similar routes. Orientation is not easy and can be very difficult in fog and poor visibility, although several cairns mark the route. The belays and abseils are already equipped with pitons and rings; in some sections, there are steel cables and iron stirrups, as well as several pitons and iron hooks. It should only be attempted in excellent weather conditions, with no snow, and by well-trained climbers with mountaineering experience. Ideally, with someone who already knows the route, this will reduce ascent and descent times and thus reduce risks. Overall, one of the most challenging and difficult normal routes in the Dolomites, due to its length, orientation and rock difficulties, fatigue, complexity, harsh environment, and exposure. Difficulty: II, III, III+ steps AD-, R2 700m elevation gain, 2000m length