¿COMO SE PESCA CON TAI RUBBER?

Today I'm going to explain what tai rubber fishing is, what equipment we need for this technique, and how I develop my own particular technique for it. Like almost everything in fishing, tai rubber originated in Japan. It's a specific technique for fishing for sparids such as sea bream, red porgy, dentex, and snapper. It's a very specific technique that requires very particular equipment. The rod: it should be short, light, flexible, responsive, and resistant, with a trigger if possible, and a solid carbon tip for greater sensitivity. It's a very progressive rod that allows you to fight all types of catches and enjoy them, whether they're big or small. It has a progressive and very parabolic action. Ideally, the rod for tai rubber should have spiral-mounted guides, as this distributes the force better when fighting the fish and optimizes the blank's power. The reel: A small, narrow-spool spinning reel is recommended, ideally with a button for automatic line release and a clutch that engages and retrieves the line with a simple pull of the handle. This allows you to always control the initial drag setting. The spinning reel provides excellent sensitivity when releasing the line, as you can constantly guide it with your thumb, noticing even the slightest touch on the fall—something impossible with a fixed-spool reel. The reel should be small to minimize weight, allowing for maximum sensitivity in your hand and arm without fatigue during a day of fishing. The narrow spool facilitates smooth line release and smooth retrieval, and a progressive drag system is crucial for gradually working the fish you're targeting. The line: Use a thin line, preferably a colored braided line, to easily gauge and control the distance at which you're fishing or touching the fish. The thinner the line, the better, as it's essential that it falls quickly with minimal resistance and, at the same time, allows for maximum sensitivity with minimal elasticity, so you can constantly perceive what's happening below. However, keep in mind that these very fine lines can catch fish weighing up to 5 kg, or even 8 or 10 kg, so the angler's skill will be crucial to avoid breaking the line if you encounter a large fish. Generally, lines between 0.8 and 1.5 mm are used. Or, in other words, lines of 0.12 to 0.18 mm, no thicker, and finally a length of fluorocarbon of 0.35 to 0.40 mm. The lure: It consists of a lead body, generally semi-spherical and often asymmetrical so that it creates a pendulum motion when retrieved. A braided line passes through this solid lead body, holding two hooks at different distances, along with skirts that together simulate a small squid or cuttlefish—in short, some type of cephalopod. Weight: As with slow jigs, the weight to choose is usually twice the depth at which you're fishing. So, if you're fishing at a depth of 60 meters, you should start with 120 grams, provided the current isn't too strong. If it is, you should increase the weight slightly to 150 grams. Skirts: These are made up of two types of rubber: smooth, tubular rubbers, which form the main body of the soft part of the lure, and ties, which, as their name suggests, imitate a flat tie ending in an arrowhead. They are longer than the tubular rubbers and therefore hang further than the rest of the skirt. There are two types of ties: smooth and wavy or curly. Smooth ties are for days with strong currents, as the current will activate them and give them a particularly attractive movement. Wavy or curly ties are for calmer days, as they create a very suggestive movement; even the slightest movement of the lure will make it seem as if it's moving. When using a live animal, the imitation is always that of a cephalopod or similar creature. The hooks: the hooks are small or very small so that when the fish are biting the skirts, they can be easily sucked in, and that's how they get hooked. Therefore, it's not necessary to jerk or set the hook; they hook themselves as they suck in the hook. Specifically, the ones I use, the Owner Tai Rubber, have two different hooks. One is the JF41, a hook with a pronounced inward curve that penetrates and hooks automatically in the jaw when the fish bites, without any problem. The other is the JF42, a straight-pointed hook that assists in hooking and generally hooks outside the mouth, and it's the one furthest away. Both hooks have a tiny barb.