Gerald Charles at Watches and Wonders 2025: asymmetric Genta, jumping hour, tourbillon, Masterlink

At Watches and Wonders 2025, Gerald Charles presented a collection that bridges the worlds of horology and professional sports, particularly tennis. CEO Federico Zannni, second-generation in the brand’s lineage, emphasized the brand’s dedication to creating luxury timepieces that are not only elegant but also durable enough for on-court performance. The standout example was their ultra-thin, shockproof tennis watch, worn by professional player Ugo Blanchet during matches, including during his doubles win at Indian Wells. These watches are equipped with Velcro straps for added comfort and are engineered for real-world athletic wear. More about the brand and models can be found at https://www.geraldcharles.com This year marks the 25th anniversary of the company, originally co-founded by the legendary designer Gérald Charles Genta. Genta’s legacy is deeply embedded in the DNA of the brand—he is best known for icons like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. Gerald Charles commemorates this heritage by remastering one of Genta’s original asymmetric case designs, reinforcing its position as a maison balancing legacy with modern aesthetics. This anniversary model acts both as a tribute and a reimagination of classic Genta design language, featuring distinctive case shapes and refined details. A unique watch being auctioned for charity at Christie’s Geneva caught attention—a one-of-a-kind jumping hour model featuring an opal stone. The jumping hour function is a key complication that Gerald Charles has made its own, with designs attributed directly to Genta in the early 2000s. The jump in the hour display, visible through the stylized dial, adds mechanical intrigue without sacrificing legibility. The brand reportedly produces only a few of these unique pieces each year, underscoring their rarity and artisanal value. Another highlighted piece was a Roman Tourbillon, featuring a hand-hammered gold dial. This model showcases Gerald Charles’ dedication to craftsmanship and finishing, echoing Geneva’s high horological standards. Alongside it was the open-worked ultra-thin model, which revealed a skeletonized movement with striking transparency. With only 1,500 watches made annually, each piece receives substantial manual finishing, combining aesthetic sophistication with high-end performance. A particularly significant addition to the collection is the Masterlink, an integrated bracelet watch derived from a unique 2007 model designed by Genta himself. Released last year, the Masterlink takes the "Maestro" design and adapts it into a contemporary, easy-wearing format. It’s an example of how the brand continues to evolve its classics while retaining the underlying mechanical and visual codes that define its identity. The brand’s movement architecture is as notable as its cases. Gerald Charles uses manufacture calibers assembled and hand-finished in its Geneva atelier. These movements are built for both resilience and refinement, allowing even athletes to wear them under physical strain. This duality—combining luxury with reliability—is part of the brand’s mission to offer collectors watches that are both beautiful and functional across different environments. Another notable collaboration is with Ducati, celebrating the 30th anniversary of the iconic 916 motorbike. A limited-edition jumping hour watch was designed with aesthetic references to the 916’s tri-spoke wheel, visible in the dial layout. This model also integrates the jumping hour mechanism, reinforcing its importance in the Gerald Charles catalog. Zannni noted that their interpretation of this complication stems from Genta’s original blueprint, dating back to 2005. The video concluded with a walk through the brand's historical timeline, including sketches, milestones, and quotes from Genta himself. The exhibition displayed unique concepts like a guitar-shaped watch made for a private client, emphasizing the bespoke possibilities for selected patrons. With limited production, strong design roots, and a growing reputation for combining performance with elegance, Gerald Charles continues to carve its niche at the intersection of traditional watchmaking and modern wearability. My full video coverage from Time for Watches Geneva is here:    • Watches and Wonders and Time to Watches 20...   This video was filmed using the DJI Pocket 3 ($669 at https://amzn.to/4aMpKIC using the dual wireless DJI Mic 2 microphones with the DJI lapel microphone https://amzn.to/3XIj3l8 ), watch all my DJI Pocket 3 videos here    • Filmed with DJI Pocket 3   Join https://www.youtube.com/charbax/join for Early Access to my videos and to support my work, or you can Click the "Super Thanks" button below the video to send a highlighted comment under the video! Brands I film are welcome to support my work in this way 😁