Самый дешёвый, утеплённый, водостойкий пол своими руками!

The video demonstrates a proprietary technology for laying the most affordable, insulated, and waterproof floor possible. This technology is more labor-intensive than traditional methods, but it allows for a floor to be installed at half the cost of traditional methods. This flooring method reduces the need for precision screed pouring and also ensures high water resistance using the most affordable laminate. This flooring can be installed on a balcony, in a kitchen, and even in a bathroom. But perhaps most interestingly, this floor can be installed without baseboards. 00:00 Welcome 00:15 The essence of the original technology for insulated, waterproof floors and expansion joints 01:01 Pressure testing of laminate and extruded polystyrene foam 01:37 DIY Rule 02:02 DIY Mixer Attachment for a Drill 02:12 Leveling the Screed 02:49 DIY Miter 03:43 DIY Copier 04:14 DIY Saw for Foam and Extruded Polystyrene Foam 04:36 DIY Waterproof Laminate 05:19 Laminate Water Resistance Test 05:40 Laminate Assembly Test after Impregnating Locks with Varnish 05:54 Jig for Assembling Laminate Blocks Next to a Wall 06:10 The Entire Process of Installing Flooring in One Minute 07:07 DIY Roller Tray 07:35 DIY Watering Can 07:45 How to spot coating defects when varnishing? 08:17 How to make the most cost-effective expansion joint? 08:55 Testing waterproof laminate flooring 09:09 Insulated, waterproof floor on the balcony 09:15 Workflow Telegram channel: https://t.me/Iuri_s_Workshop P.S. I'll add one of the answers to a viewer here. Perhaps it will be useful to someone else. Alibek asked: Thank you. I was just thinking about the moisture resistance of laminate flooring. How can I improve it? What should I use for coating? The apartment has a vestibule underneath, so there's a risk of cold floors. The task was further complicated by the fact that the balcony door in the apartment has a 3 cm gap between the subfloor and the floor (raising the door would mean redoing the frame of the plastic balcony door). So, I was thinking of using 2 cm thick penoplex and 6 mm plywood, then 2-3 mm linoleum. Your method is much more economical. Plywood would be more expensive than laminate, but I'll be using 2 cm of penoplex, which is cheap (I'll varnish the locks and the surface of the laminate). Questions: 1. Can you tell me what varnish to use to prevent odor after drying? 2. Should the back (bottom) of the laminate also be varnished, or should we assume that water doesn't penetrate from above due to the varnish sealing the surface, locks, and seams near the walls with silicone sealant? 3. Do I need to put an underlayment under the laminate, on top of the penoplex? 4. Do I need to put a film (cellophane) under the penoplex, like in an apartment? The temperature downstairs in the entryway in winter is usually 12 degrees Celsius. In the apartment, it's 21-24 degrees Celsius. My answer: Your method is much more economical. Plywood would be more expensive than laminate... Yes, I chose the most budget-friendly option, but I must warn you that it is much more expensive. Labor-intensive. 1. I used NC-243 nitro varnish, made in Russia. I remember the part number wasn't the same as the one I used before (I still have a bottle of NC-288). I wrote to the manufacturer, and they confirmed that the new varnish has the same properties. It's a waterproof furniture varnish. It dries very quickly. So, you paint it in the evening, and it's ready to go in the morning. But it's best to let the first coat dry for at least 24 hours. For a while, I think about six months, this varnish will fizz a little, like any new varnished or polished furniture. I coated the locks with polyurethane varnish. It's not as hard and although it dries quickly, it takes longer to harden to its final hardness. This is important so that the locks can be reassembled. However, before applying the varnish to the locks, I still recommend checking if you can hammer the lock in. Hammering it in by hand is the only way to assemble it after it's varnished. 2. Laminate usually has a melamine coating on top. This is paper. It's waterproof. But any scratch damages this coating. There's usually a thin layer of varnish or melamine underneath, too. So, the most vulnerable part of the laminate is the locks. But I also coated the top twice to protect it from scratches. The NC varnish is so durable that it can withstand not only chairs without any protective pads, but even metal shavings. (I have a workshop on one of the balconies.) 3. Penoplex acts as a backing. But the surface accuracy must be no worse than 2 mm per meter. 4. Polyethylene is usually used. Polyethylene is a membrane that allows moisture to pass through. That's why bread dries out in a tightly sealed plastic bag, but not in a polypropylene one. If the polyethylene is too thick, it's usually perforated (made with lots of microscopic holes). I didn't punch these holes because I used the lowest-quality construction polyethylene. I...