Where spirits become air: the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail in Japan

In September I hiked through the shrines and forests of coastal Japan, along a trail with a story that dates back to the 11th century. I made my way west to east on the Nakahechi route, staying at traditional inns and hot spring villages along the way. The Kumano Kodo is one of only two UNESCO-designated pilgrimage trails in the world. I was there for 3 days, but it is possible to spend more than a week and traverse the entire trail, coast to coast. Traditionally, pilgrims would visit the Kumano Sanzan, the three head shrines of the region, and walk east to west. 0:00 Daimonzaka 1:29 Kumano Nachi Taisha 1:34 Three-storey Pagoda 1:39 Nachi Falls 2:29 Yunomine Onsen 3:12 Largest Torii gate in the world 3:21 Kumano Hongu Taisha