Most Visitors Overlook Dzibilchaltún's Rarest Treasures

Just 10 miles north of Mérida, Dzibilchaltún is one of the most visited archaeological sites in Yucatán, Mexico. The site is often thought of as a little brother to larger ceremonial centers like Chichén Itzá or Uxmal, but this is far from the whole story. Given that people still live just a couple hundred meters from the ancient temples of their ancestors, Dzibilchaltún is one of the longest continuously inhabited settlements in the entire American continent. The Temple of the Seven Dolls is the most famous structure in Dzibilchaltún. The striking temple received its name when in the 1950s archaeologists discovered seven small figures buried within the structure. Aside from its architectural beauty, the temple is also famous for its sunrise on the spring equinox (March 21), during which the sun passes directly through its doorway. This event typically attracts thousands of spectators. After the Xlacah cenote and a colonial-era chapel, most visitors don't often venture much deeper into the site ⁠— making quick work of Dzibilchaltún and limiting their visit to around an hour or so. But behind Dzibilchaltún’s central plaza and off the beaten path of the Sac-Be lay several structures of great interest, including residential complexes and even a Mesoamerican Ballcourt. Walking through these jungle paths is fun and allows coming upon structures few ever see, to say nothing of the site's exuberant wildlife. Some of the most stunning birds commonly seen at Dzibilchaltún include Yucatán Jays and the Mot Mot or Pajaro T’Ho. Archaeologists are currently working in the southwest quadrant of the site to restore several large structures, including Temple 46, which appears to date to the 8th or 9th century. These structures bear evidence of having been erected atop older existing temples, a practice widespread in Mesoamerica. Note the niches on the facade, which were almost surely decorated with stucco masks depicting either the rain god Chaac, the sky god Itzamná, or the sun god Kín. Because this type of ornamentation was made of stucco, relatively few examples of these types of masks survive to this day… though for example those in nearby Acanceh, as well as in Kohunlich Quintana Roo are remarkably well preserved. Like the rest of the temple, these masks would have been covered in plaster and painted in bright colors… nothing like the “ruins” we see today. Within Dzibilchaltún’ss structures, archaeologists have found interior chambers with puzzling inscriptions. For example, back in 1989, archaeologists found a tomb belonging to, and forgive my Mayan, Kalonché Uk’uuw Chan Chaahk or “Lord of the Dominion of the Ka’n in Ho.” This is puzzling as the logical conclusion is that the lord of T’Ho resided and was buried in Dzibilchaltún… not T’Ho (ancient Mérida) itself. Since that time, other inscriptions making reference to this lineage have been found, including inscriptions on stele and even on the bones of deer. Moreover, ongoing research seems only to give further credence to this view. One possible explanation is that Dzibilchaltún is the true T’Ho (or seat of power of the Ho) and that ancient Mérida ought to be referred to as Ichcanzijó instead of using these two names interchangeably as has been the custom. Then again, some argue Ichcanzijó held control over its surrounding region, especially during the post-Classic, while others argue this role belonged to Dzibilchaltún, or perhaps even Caucel or Komchen. But as with all archaeological sources, it is important to understand that what we see is but a snapshot in time and not the full story. By the time Europeans arrived in Yucatán and after the fall of the league of Mayapán, the area surrounding Mérida — including Dzibilchaltún — was part of a chiefdom called Chakan, ruled by a lord living in Caucel. Admittance to the archaeological site also includes the remarkable onsite museum, which houses several impressive artifacts. Entrance to Dziblichatún costs 282 pesos but is free for Yucatecan residents on Sundays. The site's facilities are quite good with clean bathrooms, lockers, and ample parking for 25 pesos. Though it is sad that it's no longer possible to climb or enter the Temple of the Seven Dolls, most of the structures at Dzibilchaltún do not have this restriction. On a personal note, being from Mérida, Dzibilchaltún has always seemed comforting and reassuring… like some sort of totem of permanence… it was here long before I got here and will hopefully always be. NOTE: All aerial footage of Dzibilchaltún was filmed from outside the site itself and digitally enhanced. Yucatán Magazine is your English-language resource for information and inspiration. Visit https://yucatanmagazine.com/ Visit our online shop and GET Yucatán Magazine in print at your door. We deliver anywhere in México, the USA, and Canada https://yucatanmagazine.com/ym-shop/ GET OUR WEEKLY NEWSLETTER FOR FREE https://yucatanmagazine.com/newsletter/