Non commettere questo errore nella resistenza in arrampicata!

Climbing endurance isn't a one-size-fits-all thing. In this video, I show you how I train it in my home gym on two very different spray walls: one at 20° and one at 40°. On the 20° wall, the work is more localized: smaller holds, restricted footwork, a long circuit of about 60 moves, and 4-5 minutes of continuous climbing. Here, the main limitations are your fingers and forearms. On the 40° wall, the circuit is shorter, about 33 moves, but much more physical: better holds, free feet, more overhang, more body tension. Here, simply holding the holds isn't enough: your shoulders, lats, core, and ability to pull under strain also need to work. The key point is simple: you shouldn't train "endurance" in a generic way, but rather understand why you fall. If your hands fall open, you probably need to work on the localized endurance of your fingers and forearms. If, on the other hand, you lose tension, come off the wall, and can't pull anymore, then the limit is more physical and you need to train your body's resistance strength, especially on overhangs. In the video, I also talk about maximum finger strength, critical flexor strength, benchmark circuits, Total Board, repeaters, and ARC training: a very popular method, but one for which strong scientific evidence still seems limited. The question is: when you give up on a long pitch, do your fingers or your body give out first? Let me know in the comments: I'm interested in understanding the most common problem and what content to include in future videos. If you find the video useful, subscribe to the DP Climbing channel for more content on training, technique, spray walls, strength, endurance, and sport climbing. TOTAL BOARD To create and manage circuits on my spray wall, I use Total Board: an LED system + app that allows you to transform a personal wall into a smartboard. Info: https://www.totalboard.it SOURCES AND REFERENCES TO CHECK OUT / LEARN MORE Faggian S. et al. (2024) – Review of the Determinants of Climbing Performance. Giles D. et al. (2021) – Finger Flexor Critical Force. Baláš J. et al. (2014, 2024) – Wall Angle, Foot Load, and Critical Force. López-Rivera E. & González-Badillo J.J. – Hangboard, Repeaters, and Grip Resistance. Park S. et al. (2015) / Draga P. et al. (2024) – Core, Shoulder Activation, and Pulling on Overhangs. Hampton K. (2011) / Hörst E. (Training for Climbing) – ARC Training and Practical Training Methods. Note: This video describes my training journey and my interpretation of available resources. It is not an individual prescription: loads, recovery, and protocols should always be adapted to your level, training history, and tissue tolerance. DP CLIMBING Instagram:   / dp_climbing   Facebook:   / dpclimbing   YouTube:    / dpclimbing   Contact: [email protected] #arrampicata #climbing #allenamentoarrampicata #resistenza #forzaresistente #forzacritica #spraywall #totalboard #arctraining #repeaters #climbingtraining #DPClimbing