Don’t break your rope

Teeth on rope seem really scary, but are they? Multi-pitch climbers and guides have used progress capture pulleys like the Edelrid Spoc and Petzl Micro Traxion to belay their follower up to them. It requires much less effort than a device designed and rated for belaying. But what about the teeth? We used a 206 lbs rock, taking a factor 1 fall to generate 4.67 kN, ripping off the sheath and breaking two core strands. So how do we keep the force below 4 kN. One way is to keep slack out of the belay. Additionally, you can use an Edelrid G-Screamer. Edelrid was nice enough to bring in Tommy Caldwell to talk about the G-Screamer. Tommy was brave enough to take a big fall on a G Screamer attached to a Spoc. We weren't, so we used the rock again. After we figured out how to ensure slack without catching the rock with the rope when the screamer extended, the G-Screamer was able to reduce the force down to 4 kN, saving the rope. We just helped with a 4km high line where it would have been awesome to use progress capture pulleys to pull the main line across with the 4mm 12 braid HMPE tag line.    • We set up the longest rope in the world   Can you pull 4mm 12 braid HMPE up to 10 kN with toothed devices? Really, we want to know, as we haven't figured out a way yet. Buy all the cool toys we tested in this episode at https://www.hownot2.com 👉 Learn and SHOP at https://www.hownot2.com/ 👉 Best EMAILS on Earth: https://www.hownot2.com/signup 👉 10% off ROCKY TALKIE by clicking https://www.hownot2.com/rocky