Day 0: Kaza Food Tour, Spiti Valley | Momos, Thukpa, Thenthuk, Spiti Samosa & Himalayan Burger

The second leg of our Flavours of Spiti journey brings us to Kaza, the bustling headquarters of Spiti Valley and the cultural heart of this spectacular cold desert. Surrounded by stark mountains, ancient monasteries, and some of the most dramatic landscapes in the Himalayas, Kaza is often seen as a gateway to the region's many wonders. Yet beyond its breathtaking landscapes lies a fascinating food culture shaped by geography, climate, trade, and centuries of adaptation to life at high altitude. In this episode, we explore Kaza through two distinct chapters, one offering a deeper understanding of Spiti through a community-led food experience, and the other uncovering the cafés, eateries, and local favourites that make up Kaza's vibrant culinary landscape. 𝗖𝗵𝗮𝗽𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟭 Our culinary exploration begins with an immersive food tour curated by Ecosphere Journeys, a pioneering social enterprise that has been working in Spiti for over two decades. Through responsible tourism, environmental conservation, community development, and livelihood generation, Ecosphere has played a significant role in ensuring that tourism creates meaningful opportunities for local communities while helping preserve the region's cultural and ecological heritage. Guiding us through this experience is Norbu Ji, co-founder of Ecosphere, whose knowledge of Spiti's history, traditions, agriculture, and food culture adds remarkable depth to every stop along the way. More than a food walk, this becomes a journey into the stories, ingredients, and people that define life in Spiti. Our first stop is Sol Café, where we meet Tashi Ji and enjoy freshly prepared momos alongside the café's signature Sol Sandwich. Warm, comforting, and made with care, the dishes reflect the welcoming spirit that has made the café a favourite among both locals and travellers. Next, we visit Black Pea Café, a unique space dedicated to celebrating one of Spiti's most important indigenous crops, the black pea. Through innovative preparations and contemporary interpretations, the café showcases how traditional ingredients can be reimagined while staying rooted in local food traditions. We sample their mezze platter and learn about the importance of preserving native crops in a fragile mountain ecosystem. The chapter concludes at Taste of Spiti, where Tibetan and Himalayan culinary traditions take centre stage. Here we enjoy a feast featuring Tingmo, Shapta, and Thenthuk, dishes that have nourished mountain communities for generations, along with their popular Himalayan Burger, which offers a creative take on local flavours. Together, these experiences reveal how food can become a powerful lens through which to understand a region, its history, and its people. 𝗖𝗵𝗮𝗽𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮 Beyond curated experiences and food trails lies the everyday culinary life of Kaza, a town where traditional Himalayan flavours coexist with modern cafés, family-run eateries, and beloved local institutions. Our morning begins at Himalayan Café, where a hearty breakfast spread introduces us to a range of flavours enjoyed by travellers and locals alike. One of the highlights is the Tsampa Cake, inspired by roasted barley, a staple ingredient deeply embedded in Himalayan food traditions. We then visited Hotel Deyzor, one of Kaza's most respected hospitality establishments. During our visit, we spent time with the owner, learning about the philosophy behind the property and its commitment to thoughtful, responsible hospitality while enjoying a plate of delicious Jhol Momos. At Café Piti, the experience becomes as much about conversation as it is about food. Over coffee and walnut cake, we delve into discussions about Spiti's changing landscape, local culture, and the festivals that continue to strengthen community ties across the valley. The journey continues to Poonam Dhaba, where we enjoy bowls of comforting Thenthuk and plates of spicy Chilli Momos that have made the eatery a favourite stop in town. Another memorable visit takes us to Hyolmo Food Corner, a humble establishment run by a remarkable local woman whose dedication and hard work are reflected in every dish served. Here we relish flavourful Thukpa and freshly prepared Mutton Momos while gaining a deeper appreciation for the everyday stories behind Kaza's food culture. Finally, we stop by Sanju Sweets, where North Indian-style sweets and snacks offer a glimpse into another side of Kaza's evolving culinary identity, reflecting the movement of people, ideas, and tastes through this Himalayan crossroads. Through cafés, dhabas, local entrepreneurs, and community-led initiatives, this episode paints a portrait of Kaza that extends far beyond its landscapes. It is a town where food tells stories of resilience, adaptation, hospitality, and cultural exchange, a place where every meal carries a connection to the mountains and the people who call them home.