How to Correct Jacket Fitting Problems on the Pattern – ISOT Bonus Lesson 34 – Part 2 – Traditional

This lesson shows how to apply 18 jacket fitting corrections to the paper pattern of the Traditional jacket. Reza demonstrates how to transfer the fitting decisions from the fitting room back onto the paper pattern, so the jacket can be corrected before the next stages of construction. The purpose is to show how fitting alterations are not only judged on the body, but also translated accurately into pattern changes. This is the second part of the Traditional Model fitting-room sequence. Part 1 showed the fitting problems, pattern corrections and before-and-after results on the jacket. Part 2 shows how those corrections are applied step by step to the paper pattern, including balance changes, seam displacement, side seam corrections, armhole corrections, sleeve corrections, pitch mark changes and break line adjustment. This is not just a pattern alteration demonstration. It explains how to keep the pattern clean, how to draw correction lines properly, how to true the altered pattern and how multiple fitting corrections affect each other. In this lesson, you will see: • Which tools are needed for altering a jacket pattern • How to draw clean correction lines on the pattern • How to apply 18 fitting corrections to the paper pattern • How to correct balance, chest, side seams and underarm seams • How to reduce the armhole and sleeve head size • How to alter the sleeve for movement • How to re-mark pitch marks and the break line • How to true the pattern after all corrections are made This is ISOT Bonus Lesson 34 Part 2 for the Traditional Model. It completes the Traditional fitting-room sequence by showing how the fitting corrections from Part 1 are transferred back onto the paper pattern. ➤ GET YOUR PURPLE BOX (TRADITIONAL & PAGODA BUNDLE): https://www.internationalschooloftail... ➤ ATLAS TAILOR'S THIMBLE: https://www.tailorsthimble.com ➤ ECLIPSE RULER SET: https://www.internationalschooloftail... // CHAPTERS // 00:00 - Intro to ISOT Bonus Lesson 34 Part 2 00:30 - Tools needed for altering a jacket pattern 03:16 - How to draw clean pattern correction lines 05:07 - List of all 18 jacket pattern alterations 08:53 - Alteration 1: Dropping the back on the paper pattern 12:27 - Alteration 2: Slash and spread chest correction 15:56 - Alteration 3: Moving the underarm seam forward 21:28 - Alterations 4 and 5: Taking in the side panel seam and letting out the front underarm seam 24:58 - Alteration 6: Taking in the side seams 27:14 - Alteration 7: Letting out the front underarm seam 29:03 - Alteration 8: Taking in the side seams again 32:02 - Alteration 9: Slash and close chest correction 39:53 - Alteration 10: Reducing the armhole size 46:22 - Alteration 11: Reducing the sleeve head size 57:09 - Alteration 12: Letting out the hindarm seams at the elbow and cuff 01:00:22 - Alteration 13: Raising the undersleeve curve to increase arm movement 01:04:53 - Alteration 14: Letting out the underarm seams 01:10:12 - Alteration 15: Taking in the top panel side seam and re-marking the side panel scye 01:13:07 - Alteration 16: Re-marking the sleeve pitch marks 01:16:02 - Alteration 17: Letting out the back side seam and front underarm seam 01:19:38 - Alteration 18: Re-marking the break line on the pattern 01:27:57 - Truing the altered jacket pattern 01:33:06 - Outro #patterncorrection #jacketfitting #bespoketailoring