The Ethics of luxury jewellery and watches uncovered: Part 1

Ethics and sustainability are increasingly important in the world of luxury watches and jewellery. The Jewellery Editor team travelled to Baselworld 2016 to find out which brands are trying to make a difference. Read more: http://ow.ly/ohqo300jM1l One of the highlights at Baselworld was the arrival of Muzo Emerald Colombia. Muzo emeralds are not of course new, they have been prized for centuries, first by the Muzo tribe and, later, by Mughal emperors, Renaissance queens and Ottoman sultans. But this year, the famous Muzo Emerald brand launched at Baselworld under new American ownership. The new management is determined to be known not just for its vibrant green emeralds, but also for operating a modern mining operation in Colombia with an ethical approach. Jason Woods, head of marketing at Muzo Emerald Colombia, says: “We take great care of the mining community and their families. They get paid fair wages, they have health insurance, they pay taxes to the Colombian Government, and become productive citizens of society.” And to offer traceability, each stone comes with its own certificate, as Jason Woods explains: “Our clients want to know that if they are buying from Muzo, they are buying a stone that is responsibly sourced. We pride ourselves on the fact that it meets all the ethical standards that we have set ourselves.” Gemfields has established itself as the world’s largest coloured gemstone producer and is committed to making transparent every step of the gemstone-extraction process, while protecting the local communities and natural landscape in which it operates. In a world where the supply chain is often murky and convoluted, this mine-to-market traceability is something to be celebrated. Sister company Fabergé uses a Gemfield Zambian emerald in its new watch and, at its unveiling, Sean Gilbertson, executive director of Gemfields, told us: “I think without a shadow of doubt that Gemfields has been the pioneer in bringing about a whole new level of transparency and professionalism to the coloured gemstone business. I have no hesitation that the future of the industry is based around an understanding of where the metals and gemstones come from.” If you’re looking for the most natural of ethical jewellery, look no further than the pearl. Pearls are a reliable barometer of conditions at sea - the slightest fluctuations in water temperature, pollution levels or an imbalance in the eco-system can be catastrophic, so it is in a pearl farmer’s best interests to leave no trace. “The pearl industry can only survive in a pristine environment as there is no other way for the oyster to be,” says Rosario Autore, founder of Australian pearl company Autore. “The environment is key, this hasn’t changed for millions of years, and the reason that Broome (where Autore has a pearl farm) is such a productive area is because it is a pristine environment with no pollution whatsoever.” Chopard was the first to make ethical jewellery from Fairmined gold when, in 2013, it launched a diamond cuff and earrings in an initiative supported and worn on the red carpet by the likes of Cate Blanchett and Marion Cotillard. Caroline Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, explains: “This is the beginning of a long journey as I think aesthetics can be ethical.” Expect to hear more on the Green Carpet project from Chopard as the Cannes Film Festival gets underway. These may be small steps but changes are afoot and I hope that we will live to see the jewellery and watch industry transformed into a shining example of ethics, sustainability and social responsibility.