Mount Judge Howay

Mount Judge Howay Climbed with Shayan Moallef A spontaneous trip based on recent beta, planned on Sunday evening, left Monday around noon. An unforgettable experience. Day 1 - Started from before Kenyon Lake (4x4 required), 5km walk to steep bushwhack 600m down to Stave Lake during which Shayan lost his phone. We spent 2hrs looking to no avail. Next up was 14km on the Stave River FSR until we cut off and went across the Stave River. We weren't able to pick up the Hanging Valley trail, so we bushwhacked in the dark then bivied above the waterfall at 550m elev. Day 2 - The bushwhack continued until we reached the lower gully, what a view! Descended into the gully then took a line near the toe of the snowfield to ascend the other side. Minor bushwhack (and lots of blueberries) then we were finally in open alpine. Heather and grass transitioned to loose rock and sand as we entered the upper gully. There was some low class scrambling and 3 snow patches each increasing in grade up to 45 degrees (crampons + ice axe used, snow was firm and icy). To access the final summit climb we had to cross a thin snow bridge with a deeeeep vertical drop below between the snow and edge of the mountain. The final ascent had super bomber rock, an enjoyable scramble. Views from the top were outstanding. Back down, it was getting dark so we had to do an unplanned bivouac at ~850m elev. above the lower gully. It was a cold night and we had left our sleeping gear at the lower bivi site, but we were treated to magnificent sunset views of the eastern skyline. Day 3 - Down and out. We found the Hanging Valley trail, which was amazing, and once down went back across the Stave River. Then of course the long 20km trek back... including that 600m regain back up to Kenyon Lake.