Как настроить сварочный ток на любом диаметре и марки электрода. По ощущениям. Без таблиц в амперах.

A display or dial on the current regulator isn't necessary for adjusting the current—everything is adjusted by feel, the size of the weld pool, and your hand speed. It's best to weld without straining yourself—otherwise, you'll quickly tire of such concentration and control. It's better to slow down a bit, but be more confident. If you see slag deposits, bumps, and lack of fusion in your weld, either the current isn't enough or you're moving the electrode too quickly. A good indicator of this is poor slag removal, especially in the corners. If you see any undercuts in the weld, severe metal deformation, burn-through, a concave weld leg at the corners, or a shallow bead on the butt joint, you're using too much current. Find the optimal balance through trial and error—you'll find it sooner or later after the third or fourth attempt. I recommend starting with lower current settings, especially when you need to weld a finished part and have nothing to test the arc on. It's easier to grind off the weld beads with a grinder than to fill in the burn marks. The electrodes in the video are Esab OK-46. If you want to support the channel, please contact Sberbank at 4276 4000 9663 4390. This will help develop the channel. How exactly? The more videos I have, the more likely I will be able to buy things to test – electrodes of different brands, wire for a semiautomatic welding machine for testing, and TIG welding consumables. Because a welding channel can't survive on enthusiasm alone. #CurrentSetup #InverterSetup #WeldingMachineSetup