Arcade 1Up Mods

** FULL TEXT TUTORIAL AND PARTS LIST BELOW ** (click "Read More") UPDATE: A GoFundMe has been been setup to help with the cost of a new cabinet so I can do a COMPLETE step-by-step video tutorial. You can donate here: http://gofundme.com/arcade-1up-cabine... Custom modifications of the Arcade 1Up machines. Coin door, led lighting, free play mode, audio system upgrades, and all the other bells and whistles. Here is a list of parts that I used, along with some tips. Next time I'll record the process for a tutorial. There are other tutorials out there for hooking up the HDMI out board, buttons, emulators and basic setup, so I'll skip that part. Joysticks, encoder boards and LED button replacements (order the bat style joysticks separately, they are like $5 on amazon or ebay): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06... ($65) In my house, we don't play 2 player very much, instead we play 1 player games and just try to beat each others high score. Because of this, I actually have the controls mirror each other, so that player 1 and player 2 controls both control player 1. I did this because I have a 4-way joystick on the left, for games like Pac-Man, Dig Dug, etc, and an 8-way joystick on the right for games where you need a 45 degree angle, like shooting up and to the right in games like Contra, or fighting games like Street Fighter, Mortal Kombat and others. To mirror the controls, the USB encoder boards just need to be seen as the same device name (which they are by default in the above joystick/button package). You can change this in the front end software that you choose for input devices. The coin door kit can be purchased from : https://shop.xgaming.com/collections/... ($49) and the installation manual is located at: http://www.xgameroom.com/service/Serv... and the cutout template for your front panel is located here (flip your panel backwards so the graphics aren't facing the front): http://www.xgameroom.com/service/Serv... The coin door is literally just two wires (white and green) that splice into your "SELECT" button wires that plug into your USB encoder board. If using a 3-wire button like the ones in the button package listed above, the white wire connects to the red wire of your select button, and the green connects to the black wire of your select button. If using a different button package, your wire colors may vary. After installing that, I added separate switches on the top of the machine to turn the coin buttons (select buttons) on or off depending if you want to force the player to use coins or not. On the coin buttons theres two sets of wires... one set for the LED power (red and black) and one set for the button function (blue and black). Using a simple 2 prong toggle switch, I just snipped the blue wire and connected the ends to both posts on the switch to switch the coin button functionality on and off, and then on another 2 prong switch I snipped the black wire in the black/red set and connected the wire ends to both posts on that switch to shut off the coin button LED's. So basically you have to use two switches, one kills function and the other kills the lights. In the video when I flip the switches if you listen closely you can hear me flipping two toggle switches at once. For the LED lights, I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01... . ($8) Paired with these, cut to the proper length (I spray painted the metal brackets black before installing): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01... . ($18 for way more than you need) I used a Dremel tool to cut out a little square in the top of the arcade and hot glue mounted the USB controllers for the lights (from the backside, so the glue isn't seen) so I can access the controls from the top of the machine to change colors, patterns, turn off, etc... same location I installed the coin in power button switches. As far as the amplifier being mounted in the front, the knobs on the amp that I got were long enough to be able to fit through the wooden panel. If you look closely, you can see in the video the 4 black mounting screws on the front panel that hold it in place. Here is a pic behind the panel showing the mount: http://i68.tinypic.com/2uiaou0.jpg using this amp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00... ($12) For the extra speaker, any 3" speaker will work, such as this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Quality... ($8) and some 3" inner diameter speaker grills, like these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-3-Inch-... ($5 per set of 2) Just drill your holes on the left side to match the pattern on the right and mount the speaker underneath like the right side one.