SWCP Walk 10 Hartland Quay to Bude

Out for a severe day of walking. What could be finer? Since we hatched the idea of doing the mighty SWCP together this leg had been the one both of us wanted to to more than any other. This was because of its grading in the guidebook as “severe”. We set off from the cliff-top car-park at Hartland Quay more than a tad daunted. We knew that ten serious valleys had to be dealt with on this walk and believe you me I counted every single one. Andy and me set out with serious intent in our legs and a steely resolve to our countenance. This was just a joyous day and yes the descents and ascents are not to be underestimated but the sense of achievement was immense as we walked into Bude early in the evening with the sun bathing us in a golden light which matched our moods perfectly. The walk itself is one for those of us who enjoy the sense of space and solitude; we saw few others all day long expect when we approached walk’s end. The walk was lofty and airy and some of the valleys positively “chasmal” to use a word in a poem by Thomas Hardy about these parts. Often we were over 500ft above the shore and at times got right back down to it. On one of these occasions after crossing neat wooden bridge we left Devon behind and entered the magical coastline and county of Cornwall. This felt a real milestone for us as we had now ticked off a third county in our long-distance walking round the mighty south-west peninsula. So we crossed Marsland Mouth where the county boundary lay and headed back up to the high cliffs of Higher and Lower Sharpnose. The former is a must-do as it forms, in effect, a mountain like arete ridge and is incredible to venture out on with your rewards expansive views up and down this brutal but beautiful coastline. Deeper into Cornwall we headed. Nearing Bude the landscape softened somewhat but the descent after the spooks at Bude GCHQ into Duckpool is a suitable bit of punctuation near the end of this quite fabulous day’s walking. A marvellous and thrilling descent, steep in places to a stunning bay with folks aplenty all enjoyed some early summer warmth; as were we. The going was easy as we dropped bit-by-bit into the busy North Cornwall town of Bude with its unusual town centre golf links. Fantastic! Parking at Bude was easy, through the town-centre golf links to the capacious car-parking at Flexbury (SS204072) near to Crooklets Beach. Our other car, in this case Greta (Andy’s car) was stationed at Hartland Quay (SS223248).