Accorciare i jeans con l'orlo originale

At sewing school, the hem of the jeans is the same as the original! Or rather, it's the original! A loved one asked me to shorten this pair of jeans for her; she's already carefully marked it a centimeter shorter than the final measurement. Now I'm tucking in the hem, aligning the mark with the point where the original hem of the jeans begins. It almost always happens that when ironing, the inside edge of the side seam of jeans twists on itself because it isn't held in place by topstitching. In this case, you need to unroll it into the correct position, at least until it reaches the stitching on the inside of the leg. I temporarily pinned the hem and now I'm basting, checking as I go along that the hem is well aligned. Great! I'm ready for the sewing machine. I use a specific needle for jeans. It's particularly sturdy and can sew through many layers of jeans at once without breaking, as can happen where seams cross. Most sewing machines come with a half-presser foot. It's half the width of a standard foot and has two grooves on the left and right for the needle to pass through. Before you start sewing, it's important to move the needle. Be careful! If you forget this, the needle will break! Now, the needle, moved all the way to the left, can easily pass through its groove. The thread should be the darkest shade of all the jeans; you can clearly see that the darkest color blends in much better than the lightest. Now I remove the work surface from the machine and expose the free arm. I can then slide the leg of the jeans under the foot. I start sewing at the topstitching on the inside of the leg. I use the thickness of the old hem as a guide to go perfectly straight. I remove the basting and, with a good pair of scissors, I cut away all the unnecessary fabric. I leave a little more than ½ cm of fabric near the seam I just sewed. Now I use the edge presser foot; if I don't have one, a standard presser foot will do. It has a metal tab that prevents the stitches from fraying during sewing, and it has enough space to do a wide-width zigzag or an overlock stitch. The latter is definitely preferable because it doesn't fray the edges. Again, I let the difference in thickness of the original hem guide me to go straight. The result is very good! And by turning the hem right side out, you can already see the original hem, just moved higher than its initial position. Now, with the iron, I firmly press the hem right side out, even on the side seams. Only a careful and experienced person will be able to tell that these are shortened jeans! Here's a very close-up detail.