Шпонирование своими руками. Клеим шпон ореха на МДФ.

ORDER VENEER: t.me/zlatoros We ship natural veneer to any city from our warehouse or purchase at a special price from our largest partner suppliers. No extra charge for splitting veneer packs, veneer selection for a specific project, reliable packaging, and a personalized approach. Write or call us on Telegram @zlatoros. In this video, we'll learn how to veneer MDF or plywood with walnut veneer. We'll cover three basic steps. Buy veneer with free delivery: https://ozon.ru/product/916947536?utm... First, we'll assemble a veneer sheet using two different methods, learn how to join the veneer sheets, and trim them to the size of the workpiece. Second, we'll determine the best veneer glue and how and with what to apply it. And third, how to press veneer, that is, what to press it with in a small workshop. Video on how to make a membrane-vacuum press yourself:    • Вакуумный пресс для шпонирования своими ру...   In this video, we'll learn about possible defects and difficulties during veneering (veneering) and, most importantly, how to avoid them. In short, we'll see all the steps of gluing natural veneer to MDF or plywood, and learn how to achieve excellent quality veneered (veneered) parts with only a minimal set of tools and equipment. So, we need to cover this long MDF blank with a wooden edge with veneer. Two sheets should be enough. However, uncut veneer sheets have a trapezoidal shape. If you bring the two narrow ends together and place this set on the part, you'll see uncovered wedge-shaped areas on the right. So I flip one sheet of veneer over, and we get parallel outer edges. Now the assembly covers the part completely. In the animation, I've deliberately exaggerated the length of the part for clarity. In reality, it's the other way around. But note the joint line between the two sheets of veneer—it's at an angle. This isn't always appropriate, but it's perfectly acceptable for shelves and partitions inside a closet. I join the veneer sheets using masking tape. It's important to tighten the sheets tightly, without any gaps, but never allow any overlap. After the sheets are joined, I place the piece to be veneered on the assembled shirt and align it with the wooden edge. I trim off any slight veneer overhang on the back with a knife. I mark the ends with a pencil and then cut them with scissors. I apply masking tape along the entire length of the cut to prevent the veneer from fraying. A simple walnut veneer shirt is ready. Getting ahead, I'll show you a shelf from this kit. The slanted joint is visible, but it doesn't detract from the look of the piece at all. I currently use only polyurethane glue for veneering. PVA, like any water-based material, loosens the surface of MDF or plywood. They tend to form a less moisture-resistant adhesive layer. Water-based glue quickly wears out, and gaps are possible. But most importantly: if you place four sheets of this shirt on a layer of PVA, each individual sheet will curl up into tubes within seconds; you need to work very quickly. After drying, the PVA adhesive layer shrinks significantly. Polyurethane glue, on the other hand, absorbs moisture for polymerization, and then forms a high-quality moisture-resistant film. It allows you to work slowly, and you can lay veneer on it without any fear of curling. You can easily spread the adhesive over the surface of the part, checking the joints and any overlaps. It's more expensive, but the consumption is much lower than PVA. Ultimately, the cost per square meter of adhesive layer will be comparable.