Are Dress Watches Dead?

Dress watches were the first luxury watches. But in 2025, watch collectors seem less interested in formal watches than at any point in memory. Aside from boutique independents like F.P. Journe and longstanding model lines like the Patek Philippe Calatrava, there's precious little momentum behind dress watches. Why have major brands like Omega, Rolex, and Cartier failed to thrive in the dress watch category? Tim Mosso and guest host Matt Parker investigate. The original watches - pocket watches - were all dress watches. Nobody swam or flew an airplane with a Breguet tourbillon or a Thomas Earnshaw chronometer. In the wristwatch era, early watches included no water resistance, shock protection, or magnetic shielding. But tonneau cases, gold, complications, and elaborate decoration - dress watch features - were present almost from the earliest days of the wristwatch. Today, the dress watch appears successful only in the form of long-running model lines from major brands. The Cartier Tank, first introduced in 1917, is an example of an ancient watch collection that has enjoyed enduring popularity in the modern era. Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso, launched in 1931, likewise maintains a strong following. And Patek Philippe's Calatrava - renewed for 2025 as the Calatrava 6196P - continues to keep dress watches prominent amid the Aquanaut, Nautilus, and Cubitus. At IWC, the Portugieser remains popular. Among independent watch brands, Rexhep Rexhepi, F.P. Journe, and De Bethune have enjoyed small scale but consistent success. However many large brands have failed to duplicate their sports watch success with new dress watch collections. The Cartier Cle de Cartier and Vacheron Constantin Harmony of 2015 both failed to catch fire. Audemars Piguet's bombastic 2019 launch of the Code 11.59 produced a muted response as the mainstream chronograph and automatic failed to impress. And for all of its dominance with sports watches, Rolex continues to reboot its dress watch collection with the Perpetual 1908 models. With so few new entrants from mainstream watch brands and low-volume production by independent watch brands, it's worth asking, "is the dress watch dead?" In 2025, Patek Philippe arrived at Watches & Wonders with more evidence that only existing dress watch powers can succeed in the segment. Please Subscribe:    / @the1916company   Signup for The 1916 Company news and updates: https://www.the1916company.com/email-... Buy Watches Here: https://www.the1916company.com View hands-on luxury watch reviews on The 1916 Company Reviews:    / @the1916companywatchreviews   Instagram:   / the   1916 Company #luxurywatches #watchcollector #watchcollecting #luxurywatch #timmosso #the1916company MB01IM56DKHUGTR

An Hour of Watches - F.P. Journe, De Bethune, Greubel Forsey, Gronefeld, Ludovic Ballouard, More!
▶︎

An Hour of Watches - F.P. Journe, De Bethune, Greubel Forsey, Gronefeld, Ludovic Ballouard, More!

I Bought my Grail Watch: the F.P. Journe Elegante.
▶︎

I Bought my Grail Watch: the F.P. Journe Elegante.

How to forge an axe | SWR Craftsmanship
▶︎

How to forge an axe | SWR Craftsmanship

This $72,000 Luxury Watch Doesn't Tell The Time!
▶︎

This $72,000 Luxury Watch Doesn't Tell The Time!

DEALERS ARE BEGGING PEOPLE TO BUY THESE 5 WATCHES AFTER THE MARKET CRASHED
▶︎

DEALERS ARE BEGGING PEOPLE TO BUY THESE 5 WATCHES AFTER THE MARKET CRASHED

My Favorite Watch Brands - Josh Thanos is Back!
▶︎

My Favorite Watch Brands - Josh Thanos is Back!

The Best Dress Watches From Major Brands
▶︎

The Best Dress Watches From Major Brands

8 BEST NEW WATCH RELEASES OF  2026
▶︎

8 BEST NEW WATCH RELEASES OF 2026

Watch Expert Brutally Exposes Rolex ‘Waitlist’ Scam, Dirty Secrets, & Celebrity Fakes | Nico Leonard
▶︎

Watch Expert Brutally Exposes Rolex ‘Waitlist’ Scam, Dirty Secrets, & Celebrity Fakes | Nico Leonard

Exploring Mark Cho’s Rare Watch Collection - Cartier, Patek Philippe, F.P. Journe & More
▶︎

Exploring Mark Cho’s Rare Watch Collection - Cartier, Patek Philippe, F.P. Journe & More

Extremely extensive and sophisticated French watch collection!
▶︎

Extremely extensive and sophisticated French watch collection!

The World Has Stopped Listening to Trump (w/ Tom Nichols) | Command Post
▶︎

The World Has Stopped Listening to Trump (w/ Tom Nichols) | Command Post

A Lange & Sohne Watches: The Top Eight Watches From Germany's Best Watchmaker
▶︎

A Lange & Sohne Watches: The Top Eight Watches From Germany's Best Watchmaker

Patek Philippe Platinum Calatrava 6196P | Salmon Dial | Reference 6196P-001 | 2025 Release
▶︎

Patek Philippe Platinum Calatrava 6196P | Salmon Dial | Reference 6196P-001 | 2025 Release

Top Watches I'm BUYING in 2023: Collectible Luxury Watches From Rolex, Patek, and Vacheron
▶︎

Top Watches I'm BUYING in 2023: Collectible Luxury Watches From Rolex, Patek, and Vacheron

Reacting to Watches & Wonders 2026: Favorite Releases, Trends, and More
▶︎

Reacting to Watches & Wonders 2026: Favorite Releases, Trends, and More

Watch Shopping At A. Lange & Söhne With Kevin O'Leary
▶︎

Watch Shopping At A. Lange & Söhne With Kevin O'Leary

10 WORST and 10 BEST Watch Brands You Can Buy (Some Will Shock You)
▶︎

10 WORST and 10 BEST Watch Brands You Can Buy (Some Will Shock You)

The Price of Watches Is Not Everything! Watch MOVEMENT Macros and Luxury Watches Reviewed
▶︎

The Price of Watches Is Not Everything! Watch MOVEMENT Macros and Luxury Watches Reviewed

Talking Watches With John Goldberger, Part 2
▶︎

Talking Watches With John Goldberger, Part 2