etrailer | EcoHitch Class II Hidden Trailer Hitch Installation Guide - 2025 Mazda CX-30

Click for more info and reviews of this EcoHitch Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc... Check out some similar Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm Search for other popular Mazda CX-30 parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2025... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe!    / etrailertv   Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-e... Hey there, neighbors, Kevin here with etrailer, and today we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the EcoHitch Trailer Hitch Receiver here on our 2025 Mazda CX-30. If you own a Mazda CX-30, you probably know all too well that there's not really a lot of space, especially in the trunk here. So, if you end up having a couple of buddies go with you on a trip or maybe your family, you probably don't have enough room to bring all of your gear with you. So, that's gonna leave you with having to install a trailer hitch receiver, which EcoHitch has a great option for you today. This trailer hitch is gonna come with a two inch by two inch receiver tube opening, so it's gonna have that standardized spacing, so that it's going to fit the majority of accessories out on the market. Now, with this trailer hitch, we can either throw in a ball mount and then tow a small trailer, or we can throw in a cargo carrier or a bike rack. And typically, those bike racks and cargo carriers are gonna be able to fold up so that you can reduce your overall length. Now, there's gonna be a couple of measurements that are gonna be super important because of that, the first one being that folded length. So what we wanna do to figure out if we're gonna have enough clearance so that we don't hit our fascia, is to measure from the center of the hitch pin hole out to the furthest point on our fascia, which it looks like this is kind of the furthest point here. So, we're right around 3 1/2, maybe four inches. So all we'd have to do is go and look at our accessory, go from the center of the hitch pin hole to the closest point when it's folded up, and make sure that we have enough clearance. Now, the other part here is our ground height. So we wanna make sure that when we hit a steep incline or decline, we're not gonna be bottoming out and scraping the shank of our accessory. So, for that, we'll measure from the ground up to the top of the inside of the receiver tube opening, and that's got me right around 12 5/8, which is well over what we want. We want to have a minimum of 12 inches so that we know we're not gonna end up scraping. If we we inchesre below that 12 inches, that's where we have to start looking into some adapters so that we can kind of raise that height up just a bit more. Now, our trailer hitch itself is gonna have a 2,500 pound gross towing weight capacity, which is gonna be the capacity for pulling a trailer. And then we are also gonna have a 375 pound tongue weight rating, which is going to be the downward force on the inside of our receiver tube. Now, just because the trailer hitch can handle that amount of weight does not mean that your vehicle can, so you definitely will wanna make sure that you double-check your owner's manual and figure out exactly what safe load limit is for your vehicle. One thing that's not gonna come with your trailer hitch is going to be a hitch pin and clip. For this one, we're gonna have a 5/8 hitch pin and clip that we'll need to pick up separately. I typically recommend picking up one that's gonna be anti-rattle and locking, so that way whatever accessory have back here isn't gonna be rattling around, making a bunch of noise, or jostling any kind of cargo that we're hauling back here. And then locking, so that way, no one can take off with our equipment anytime we have to leave our vehicle. Now, if we're gonna be towing a trailer, we're also gonna need to be able to hook up our safety chains. So one thing I like to check is just how well our tow loops actually function with the different styles of clevis. So with our S hook, that one is obviously gonna go on pretty easy. Usually, you don't really have a problem with the S hook, but the larger clevis style sometimes wants to bind up, depending on how tight that loop is. Looks like no matter which way you do it on this one, though, we are plenty good, we got plenty of clearance there, no bind-ups happening. So, we are all good with that. The other thing to look for would be to add on some four-pole wiring. At minimum, if you're trailer also has brakes, you would also need to upgrade to a seven-way and then also install a brake controller, so that way you could actuate the brakes and also send over all of your light signals, so that way everyone else on the road knows exactly what your intentions