Part 2: Floyd Rose Locking Nut Install Rear Mount — Routing Jig from Part 1

See Part 1 for the jig:    • Part 1: Floyd Rose Locking Nut Shelf Routi...   This is not an instructional video. I'm not showing you how to use a router, I'm not showing you how to measure, I'm not showing you how to set up a fence or a depth stop. Accuracy depends on having a stable router platform, and the care you take setting the fence and the depth stop. I am sneaking up the final dimension in increments of a tenth of a millimeter. (Timestamps below↓) Schaller made Floyd Rose nut rear mounted with machine screws. Existing shelf was extended to accommodate the width of a Floyd nut, then holes plunged through neck to rear mount the nut with machine screws. There is no wood available for top mounting screws. Very brief appearance by a Holley carburettor, and a much longer appearance by a Holley carb adapter plate masquerading as a router platform. The Holley adapter plate isn't necessary, the routing jig also has a platform made of form ply at the other end, which I used on another neck. Re: Routing direction — the grain happens to be running up and out of the work from right to left. I followed its direction, so that if the router grabbed or the wood split, it would split up into the waste wood, and not down into the shelf. In any case, I took tiny passes and moved very carefully, listening to the cutter, the sound will tell you whether it's happy or not. Re: Mounting attempts — maybe too obvious to state, you can't drill down the side of a cliff, so on this specific neck, it had to be a plunge routing or milling operation. (Not obvious for one particular muppet.) If your neck has heel adjust truss rod, or you're well clear of the truss rod access, you could possibly drill. But if you have the wood available, maybe just top mount with screws, it's easier. Re: Mounting bolts — the original Floyd machine screws (M4x18mm) were a smidgen too short, I used M4x20mm ceramic coated (oooh aaah) machine screws. The other important reason I needed to keep them long (apart from preserving wood at the weakest part of the neck via shallow counterbore) was that the 8mm counterbore would've ended up in the truss rod adjustment cavity, which would upset Mr. Bigglesworth. Re: The counterbore — you could possibly use an M4 counterbore drill bit, but better check the dimensions. Typically they are either 7.5mm larger diameter (too small) with 4mm guide (good), or 8mm larger diameter (good) with 4.5mm guide (too big). 8mm router bit obviously doesn't have a guide, so you need to be much more careful setting up, but the results are cleaner. 00:00 What is required 00:24 Some wood for the new shelf 01:18 Preparation for gluing (epoxy) 02:00 Gluing new shelf wood on 02:47 Holley carb adapter plate appears 03:20 Routing the new shelf 03:52 Routing platform not quite parallel, compensation required 04:30 Routing shelf completed 05:18 Mounting hole investigations 05:50 Slight angle on the mounting holes 06:11 4mm and 8mm router bits for making mounting holes 06:24 Setting up fences and stops for the router 06:53 Test plunge and then plunge routing the holes 07:14 Comparison between two genuine Schaller Floyd Rose nuts, holes don't match 07:40 Holes are through 08:10 Exit wounds, very clean 08:21 Nut mounted on neck for first time 08:36 Neck back in cradle for counterbore on rear holes 08:58 Complete, nut mounted on neck with counterbored holes SH 3 SB (SUS 1 25/05/08)