17 мгновений... для ОГРОМНОГО урожая перца! Простые и короткие правила, доступные каждому.

Healthy seedlings: from seeds to planting: https://knig.by/index.php/knigi/%D1%8...% D1%80%D0%B0%D1%81%D1%81%D0%B0%D0%B4%D0%B0-%D0%BE%D1%82-%D1%81%D0%B5%D0%BC% D1%8F%D0%BD-%D0%B4%D0%BE-%D0%BF%D0%BE%D1%81%D0%B0%D0%B4%D0%BA%D0%B8-detail Books on gardening and horticulture: https://knig.by/index.php/knigi/%D1%8... Some people succeed with pepper, others - not so much. There are many nuances to growing this plant. For some, the climate and soil help, and someone acts with experience and cunning. In this video, I suggest you get acquainted with several simple rules that you should take note of so that the pepper harvest only pleases you! Even more interesting things on the Protsvetok channel and on the pages of the Urozhainye Sotki magazine. 1) Sow peppers at such a time that 70-75 days pass from the emergence of seedlings to planting seedlings. 2) Pepper needs loose but fertile soil. Fertilize the soil 2-3 weeks before planting seedlings with various organic substrates: fruit peels, bone and fish meal, horn shavings, composts, but not fresh manure! Chicken manure is allowed. 3) Pepper needs more neutral soil than tomato, the optimal pH for pepper is 6.5-7.0, and for seedlings - 6.8. Seedling soil "Living World" is completely favorable for pepper and other plants. 4) For the reason (point 3), the best nitrogen fertilizer for pepper is urea. 1 tablespoon per 1 sq.m. is an excellent neutralizing dressing, but do not do this in advance. Do this on the day of planting peppers. 5) Do not thicken the plantings. Plant 4 peppers per 1 sq.m. 6) Mulch the pepper plantings with fresh or dry grass, add grass as mulch until the first fruit forms. After that, add only straw or sawdust as mulch. Too much mown grass can reduce the yield! 7) Grow peppers in 3 stems. Remove all side shoots. But not from the main stem. But above the first leaf. 8) Properly grown, fed pepper seedlings do not require removing any flowers. Do not do this nonsense, unless your seedlings are hungry. In this case, remove the flower to give the seedlings a chance to restore their normal condition after planting. 9) Do not plant companions, especially legumes (beans). You can plant basil, but restrain its growth so that it does not shade the pepper during growth and flowering. 10) Feed only with mineral fertilizers until the first fruit forms. The exception is green fermentation (liquid compost) and thoroughly fermented chicken manure. The basis of the mineral fertilizer should be urea. A tablespoon per 10 liters of urea + 0.5 tablespoon of potassium monophosphate and 1 liter per plant every 7 days. (other sources of phosphorus and potassium can be ash, Fosfatovit, etc.). Or feed only with green fermentation every 7 days (2 liters per 10 liters). 11) In the second half of the growing season - 1 tablespoon of potassium monophosphate per 10 liters of water and 1 teaspoon of urea, 1 liter per plant. Reduce the fermentation doses to half. You can use a fermentation solution (0.5 liters per 10 l) + 1 tablespoon of potassium monophosphate. 12) After harvesting the first wave of the crop, return to nitrogen fertilizing (point 10). When the first fruit sets, go to point 11. 13) Spray the peppers with chlorella, Stimul. Gulliver, and microelements every 7 days. Peppers respond very well to this! 14) Maintain optimal humidity. Do not overwater or overdry the pepper. This is not a tomato - it cannot stand it! 15) Never give pepper either a bath or a cold night. This is not a tomato! You can lose more than half of the crop due to these changes! 16) Fight pests. With aphids - with a soap solution. And with slugs and earwigs - with the drug Baktotsid. Death for nematodes is the drug Nemacid. 17) Try to place peppers and tomatoes in different corners of the greenhouse or, even better, in a separate greenhouse.