At Almost 52, I Climbed Kebnekaise's Eastern Route Despite My Fear of Heights

Climbing Kebnekaise via the Eastern Route (Östra leden) was something I once believed was impossible because I was afraid of heights. I first decided to climb Kebnekaise in February 2023, three and a half years ago. That was also when I learned that there are two routes to the summit: the easier Western Route and the much more difficult Eastern Route with a via ferrata. I immediately wanted to climb the Eastern Route, but I told myself, "It's not for me. I'm afraid of heights, and I'll never be able to do it." Three years ago, I reached Skala on Mount Olympus, where the trail splits toward Mytikas, the highest peak, and Skolio, the second highest. Although the difference in elevation is only six meters, climbing Mytikas is much more difficult and exposed. I wanted to stand on the highest summit, but I was overcome by a panic fear of heights and turned toward Skolio instead, choosing the easier hiking route. On July 7, 2026, at 5:30 PM, I began my first mountaineering ascent. At 1:00 AM on July 8, I was standing on the South Summit of Kebnekaise. Most people wait for a perfect weather window before attempting this climb. I wasn't looking for perfect conditions. It had been drizzling during the day, so we waited in our tent for three hours until the rain stopped. Half an hour after we started climbing, it began to rain again. I first felt fear when we stepped onto the glacier. We were not roped together. We had no rope, no crampons, and no ice axes. There was no visible trail across the glacier. Since 2025, the Swedish Tourist Association has stopped guiding the Eastern Route because of the glacier's condition and the increased risk of rockfall. I didn't give fear any space in my mind. I kept moving forward. Fortunately, after about 300 meters on the glacier, we found a single set of footprints and followed them. I felt fear for the second time on the snowy ridge where the glacier ends, and for the third time at the beginning of the fixed-cable section, which later becomes the via ferrata. By then, the rain had turned into wet snow. Our boots, gloves, and hats were completely soaked. We put on our harnesses, via ferrata lanyards, and helmets. After a short distance, we had to unclip because the safety cable was buried deep beneath the snow. We climbed higher until we could finally see it again. Then we reached a traverse of about 30 meters across a slope of roughly 75 degrees. The cable was still completely hidden under the snow. I went first, driving my boots as deeply as I could into the snow. More than 50 meters of steep slope dropped away below me. I was completely focused on this dangerous section of the route. There was simply no room for fear. With the same concentration, I crossed a second exposed section with a similar angle, again without access to the safety cable. We had to climb upward while the mountainside disappeared into the fog far below—at least 70 meters as far as we could see, and probably much more. Our boots and gloves had long since become soaked by the wet snow. At around 11:00 PM, we reached Gamla Toppstugan (1,880 m). We spent about an hour and a half inside the shelter, trying to dry our clothes a little and warm ourselves. My wife was freezing and soaked to the bone, yet she still kept filming whenever she could. Some of the moments you see in this video exist only because of her. At 1:00 AM on July 8, 2026, I stood on the South Summit of Kebnekaise, 2088,5 m. It didn't feel like a miracle. It felt completely natural. I wanted to do it. I did it. I climbed the Eastern Route. And fear... Fear stayed somewhere down below. But was there really any fear at all? Or was fear only an illusion that disappeared the moment I decided to keep moving? We descended back to our tent via the Western Route. #KebnekaiseEasternRoute #Östraleden #viaferrata #afraidofheights #mountaineering #hikingSweden