My First Time Surfing Heavy Waves
This was my first time surfing heavy, double overhead waves and I was absolutely terrified. This session took me way out of my comfort zone. What I thought would be the most epic day of the trip turned out to be a full on battle with fear. The waves were bigger than anything I had ever surfed and for most of the session, I felt completely overwhelmed. I only managed to catch two smaller waves towards the end before paddling in. I felt disappointed in myself, but knew that it was a necessary step in my surfing journey. Shot on a DJI Osmo Action 4 and an iPhone 11 Pro. Board : RT Icon, 5'10 X 19 1/4" X 2 7/16", 29.3L 00:00 Introduction 02:08 Starting on the shoulder 03:25 Paddling a little deeper 05:50 5 spits on this wave!? 07:40 Such a cheerful vibe 09:55 Missing so many perfect waves 14:50 Finally paddling to the peak 16:12 My first wave 17:21 Biggest clean up set of the day 18:51 My last wave

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