Wie man einen Unterputz-Spülkasten wieder dicht bekommen kann

★ Geberit Type 380, 240.705.001, Fill Valve https://amzlink.to/az0J0pWHbPPA4 ★ Geberit Universal 240.113.001, Lift Bell https://amzlink.to/az08wJ22QgZFy ★ Geberit Lift Bell Seal https://amzlink.to/az0AmKZ3MgKb9 ★ Geberit 240.921.00.1 Connecting Hose https://amzlink.to/az0wpY4HSr3RR ★ Geberit Impulse Cistern Conversion Kit https://amzlink.to/az0hIcRm6xm41 ★ 141-Piece Sealing Ring Assortment https://amzlink.to/az053wZLsf6Qh ★ DRAXUS Cistern Cleaner https://amzlink.to/az0d0amWnoqIV ★ Wera Joker Ratcheting Ring Wrench https://amzlink.to/az01MjCCtDnvM ★ Wera 335/350/355/6 Screwdriver Set https://amzlink.to/az0mMBODbvJn3 ★ Amazon page from Unklar.de https://amzlink.to/az0ShyT2LaAyT Links marked with an asterisk (★) are affiliate links. If you click on such an affiliate link and make a purchase through it, I receive a commission from the online shop or provider. The price remains the same for you. This video is about a Geberit toilet cistern. This cistern has functioned without problems for 25 years, and assuming 8 flushes per day, that adds up to over 70,000 flushes in that time. But now it's leaking, so this is a good opportunity to show how to disassemble the individual parts. First, the actuator plate is removed. To do this, it needs to be pushed upwards by 1-2 centimeters and then lifted forwards. On the mounting frame, which is now visible, there's a spring wire that holds the actuator plate in position. The frame itself is held by two screws, which are removed next, but it can only be removed once the small plastic rocker switch has been released. After 25 years, you might worry whether the plastic will withstand the strain, but these concerns were unfounded; nothing broke when it was released, and now the frame can be removed. The spacer bolts are now turned 90 degrees to the left and can then be pulled out. They hold the mounting frame, which I'll explain again in more detail during reassembly. The protective plate is held by two hooks, which can be carefully pressed down with a screwdriver so that the plate releases and can then be unhooked at the bottom. Over 25 years, quite a bit of dust and dirt accumulates, so using a vacuum cleaner is worthwhile for an initial cleaning. Once that's done, I turn off the shut-off valve. It's actually surprising that it's still so easy to operate manually after all these years. Then I drain the water from the cistern. Everything is dusty and dirty, but that was to be expected. Using a 19mm open-end wrench, I loosen the fitting for the fill valve and promptly lose the gasket while unscrewing it, but no problem, I have plenty of those. The fill valve can be unclipped, but it can't be removed from the cistern because the bearing block in the middle is in the way. So, I first loosen the guide that holds the siphon bell at the bottom and then unclip the bearing block upwards from its holder. It could also use a cleaning, and now its guide can be removed as well. Now that there's more space, the fill valve can be easily removed, and since the siphon bell can be separated, it can also be taken out of the cistern. Below the video, you'll find some links to accessories that might need replacing, but I'll start with a classic cleaning using dish soap and warm water. Now the individual components look much better, and above all, much cleaner. I'll begin reassembly with the fill valve float, which closes the valve when the water level in the cistern is high enough. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the original gasket, but of course, I had one on hand. First, I'll put the siphon bell back into the cistern and reconnect the two parts. Next comes the cleaned fill valve, followed by the bracket that secures the siphon bell at the bottom, in front of the water outlet. I'll start by putting the siphon bell back into the cistern and then reconnect the two parts. When inserting the bearing block, the operating lever must engage both in the tab of the siphon bell and at the rear of the housing before it clicks into place itself at the bottom. Now the lever can function again, and with the new seal, I reconnect the fill valve to the hose leading to the angle valve. When tightening the screws, the braided hose should not twist, as leaving tension in the system would be detrimental. Now the fill valve is also re-engaged, and then the angle valve can be opened with a half turn for the initial test.