Day 9 of the Via Francigena from San Quirico d'Orcia to Gallina - 12.4 miles (20km)

The guidebook recommends a stage from San Quirico d’Orcia to Radicofani consisting of 20miles/33km of walking, with 3600feet/1100m elevation-most of it being towards the end of the day. After reading this, we decided to split the walk into 2 days by staying in Gallina which is 1km off the track. However, there is not much accommodation there, or food!! So, book well in advance. This would also give us more time to admire the views, and visit the castle of Radicofani once we arrived. Be careful too, as there are not many food stops along the way, so take supplies with you. We had been to the coop supermarket in San Quirico the night before to purchase. After one of the most amazing breakfasts, we have ever eaten included in the room price, (Torre Camaldoli B &B, part of the Capitano Collection), we left late at 9am. If walking the whole section, we would have had to leave early, missing this sublime experience. We were soon in the countryside, passing more old properties. The hill-top castle at Radicofani can be seen for much of the day, looking very far away. We passed through Vignoni Alto-with very pretty old buildings. After 3.5 miles, (134m ascent, 1 hour 40 mins), we arrived in Bagno Vignoni. The 16th century square is a collection of buildings, including a church and restaurants surrounding a pool of spring-fed hot water, making it the only aquatic square in Italy!!! In medieval times pilgrims were allowed to bathe here, unfortunately that is not allowed now. The spring waters then flow out towards the Orcia River, passing where 4 medieval mills used to stand. In the summer time, it is possible to swim in the pools down by the river. We called into Enoteca Bar for coffee, they sell some fruit, cake, chocolate etc to take away. There is a large hotel here, other accommodation, and restaurants making it a pleasant stop instead of San Quirico. We imagine this place would be very busy in the summertime. Continuing, unfortunately the pedestrian bridge was shut, so we back tracked to the main road, before re-joining the path. We walked past Castiglione town, which looked a lovely place to visit, with a tower on top of the hill. Our track descends to proceed along the valley floor. Then ascends to Agriturismo Antonio with a bench and water tap, with fabulous views all the way back to San Quirico (9.5 miles 449m ascent, 4 hours 50 mins). We took the track to the left to Gallina, arriving at 3pm, staying at IL Pallaio Gallina. We walked round the hamlet of Gallina, calling into cafe Panini on the main road, which is shut on a Saturday. There is one restaurant in town the 11 Parallel, that is only open for lunch. But they do take away food if booked in advance. We had ordered a very delicious chicken stew which was available for collection at 7pm, and ate in our room. We had had a lovely, peaceful day, again with nice weather. We were very happy that we had decided to stay half-way to Radicofani. It was nice to have a shorter day than normal, and we could take our time. Distance 12.4 miles (20km) Duration of Walk 6 Hours including breaks Elevation Gained 1610 feet (491m) Pace 29 min a mile Websites used www.bookings.com IL Pollaio Gallina, Good location. Very friendly and helpful English-speaking owner, who said we were the first guests of the season. (March)