Junk to Jewel Paint Stripping and hood structural repair

In this third episode of our 1984 Chevy C10 restoration series, we’re diving deep into the bodywork phase! We start by testing out aircraft paint stripper on the fenders—with some pretty mixed results—before switching over to the Eastwood SCT tool and a DA to get down to bare metal. We also take a moment to show off the progress on the engine bay, featuring those upgraded brake features and the custom firewall work Phil has been grinding away at. One of the biggest highlights in this video is a deep dive into fixing the common "floppy hood" issue on these C10s. I'll show you how we use windshield urethane to re-seal the structural braces, providing the strength needed to properly block and sand the hood without it flexing. In this video: Testing paint strippers vs. mechanical stripping Engine bay and custom firewall progress Using the Eastwood SCT for efficient metal prep Step-by-step: How to stiffen a C10 hood for bodywork Pro tips for using urethane as a structural adhesive A quick appearance by our shop dog, Jax's! Are you a fan of keeping the hood ornaments on these square bodies, or do you prefer the shaved look? Let us know in the comments! Don't forget to Subscribe to follow along with the rest of this C10 transformation! 00:00 - Introduction & C10 Series Overview 00:18 - Testing Aircraft Paint Stripper on Fenders 02:57 - Engine Bay & Upgraded Brake Features Reveal 04:19 - Power Washing & Giraffe Tools Setup 06:21 - Stripping Primer with the Eastwood SCT Tool 09:56 - Inspecting Fender Dents & Metal Prep 13:13 - Second Fender Stripping & Epoxy Prep 14:39 - Removing & Assessing the Hood Issues 15:31 - How to Fix a Floppy C10 Hood (Urethane Sealing) 19:05 - Pro Tip: Proper Hood Support for Bodywork 22:58 - Final Smoothing & Cleanup 26:10 - Shop Dog Jack’s Mask Dilemma & Outro