Volantex 400mm Warbird RC Plane Simple Guide/How To Fly/More Details

A simple guide at first as to how to fly these planes and how they operate with their bespoke transmitters. Then I go into more details explaining things I have found out. These are just my own guidelines, so you please research too and do what you think is correct. I mention how the transmitter operates, what the buttons do and how the three modes are all different. I also explain briefly how I paint these models (more in depth video on my channel), and briefly explain about the LiPo batteries and that the storage voltage is recommended 3.8v as these are single cell. That gives about 7 minutes flying time roughly depending how much throttle you give it. It can fly for twice as long but then you are at risk if draining the battery too much and then it fails, or puffs up (chemicals inside going wrong), or it won't charge. I just charge several batteries or power packs as I call them, and fly each for seven minutes approx. 3.8v is ideal but you can store these at 3.7 to 3.9v no problem. Battery connectors are called Molex connectors. I use a LiPo meter to measure in the field how charged up my power packs are. This is useful after charging to know it has charged properly. The charge supplied need a USB adapter to plug into and take about an hour. It glows red when charging then goes out when charged. I charge on a ceramic plate, glass board or metal dish, just in case the LiPo decides to catch fire (they might do that if damaged or puffy for example). Always be nearby when charging LiPos. I store mine in a metal case too in regular temperatures. But these are just my own guidelines, so you please research too and do what you think is correct. When filming there were only 'version 1' models. 'Version 2' models feature beeping telemetry to tell you when nearing going out of range, or low power, and they also have clear canopies. I tend to replace the 2D pilots with a 3D printed one (adds less than a gram). The version 2 of the older planes usually have access hatches for the motor and servos. Overall these are clever planes, low or no risk due to their durability, and are an awful lot of fun. I know larger planes might be better for stunts, or be impressive models, go faster or whatever but these little foamies have asserted their place in the flying model world as fun and easy to fly with no worries and that is hard to better. I do love these little aircraft. As you gain experience, you can fly 'low and close', my preferred way of flying as you can really experience the model close hand. This is dangerous with a large model of course. Other advantages are that it's easy to build up a squadron, they don't cost much or take up much room. It is proper 4 channel flying and you can get parts like 'hobby grade models'. You currently don't have to register these models, just buy and fly. You can fly in many suitable fields and parks. As you get better you can even fly in all sorts of weather conditions, even very windy and that's great fun too to hover or fly backwards. For me a new genre of model has been made as in recent years these are much more stable, and they have all the advantages stated above. What's not to like? I use acrylic paints to brush or spray (try a small area first). I use regular UHU contact adhesive to fix. I use loft insulation foam to repair if needed as this is fine enough to easily cut with a scapel. I put my first name and phone number under the plane - up to you if you do this but this has helped me get two models home. In my 'field pack' I have a small screwdriver to dig out the power packs, glue, LiPo meters, spare parts, props, and a metal tin to store the batteries. My 'Field Pack is a bag but you could use the foam the models come in to pack it out. I also carry a cheap wind meter these days. The version 1 (V1) Mustang here flew over 100 flights, totalling 8 hours and is still going, even after 7 major crashes and repairs. Paint means it looks good too. Music is Destructoid from YouTube. Internet search 'Calvertfilm'.